Parure Animale, Lou Woolworth's first exhibition
The Isabelle Subra Woolworth Gallery - very popular with the art world and major fashion designers - unveils an exhibition of antique jewelry from the 19th to the 21st century with an animal theme, in dialogue with the contemporary creations of Chloé Valorso.
You have to see the enthusiasm for this gallery on rue de Seine, specializing in antique and artists' jewellery, today managed by Lou Woolworth, who succeeded her mother and grandmother. On the eve of its very first exhibition, it is in the process of finalizing its installation, but people are already flocking to its door, hoping to get a taste of the many pieces resulting from this eulogy to the animal. From its most realistic representation to the most abstract forms, it highlights remarkable ancient techniques, which, depending on the period, favour gold set with precious stones, silver or enamel.
“I restore jewellery to revitalize them, even if they are already in very good condition, ” explains the young woman. The provenance of each piece is not absolutely precise, but she knows her dealers well, some from her grandmother's repertoire. Thus, wild or marine animals, insects of all kinds, butterflies and snakes make up this collection of jewellery, some dating from 1850, such as this dog bracelet sculpted in 18-carat gold and inlaid with rubies. We also find a piece by Jules Wièse, a great jeweller from the mid-19th century, as well as a beautiful selection by Line Vautrin, and jewellery by Pomellato, Fred and Zolotas from the 1970s.
For this first exhibition at the gallery, which has already hosted big names in the past like Marcel Duchamp, Andy Warhol, Yves Saint-Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, a selection of sculptural jewels by the artist Chloé Valorso are also on display. light. These are animals represented during trance states caused by shamanic breathing practiced and taught by the creator. The crab, moving between water and land, symbolizes the power of change and adaptation. The snake, widely represented, embodies the power of transformation and rebirth. Each “body sculpture” is seen as an amulet, a protective jewel that reconnects us with the animal within us. “An animal jewel is not a neutral jewel, it sketches the personality of the person who succumbed to it and wears it,” assures Lou Woolworth.
The Isabelle Subra Woolworth Gallery has always presented jewellery around animal themes, an inexhaustible source of inspiration which has contributed to its reputation. It was therefore quite natural that Lou Woolworth chose to pursue this work which fascinates and excites her.
Until July 5, 2024.
Galerie Isabelle Subra Woolworth, 51 rue de Seine, Paris 6th.