Picture Perfect Nails: The Game-Changing Russian Manicure
L’Officiel speaks to nail care specialist Ashley Colet of Ashluxe nails on why Russian manicures are a game changer.
PHOTOGRAPHY Alan Segui
PRODUCTION DESIGN Studio Segui
What is Russian manicure and why did you decide to study it?
Russian manicure, also known as dry manicure, utilizes special tools like electric files with bits in various grits and coarseness to gently buff away dead skin and cuticles without soaking the nails in any liquids or solutions. This method allows for greater precision and attention to detail, particularly in addressing cuticles, as it can get closer to the nail plate without causing damage. Russian manicure focuses on gently removing excess skin and cuticle growth. Overall, Russian manicure is considered to be a gentler and more precise option, particularly suitable for those with sensitive nails or those seeking meticulous nail care. This method may take longer than a traditional manicure due to the detailed process and attention to detail but it can be worth it as your enhancements last for weeks to months.
As a nail biter myself, I was never satisfied with the works of other nail techs or salons. I disliked the look of unnatural nails and would often find myself disliking the limited colour selection found in our traditional salons. Other than that, it was just too expensive for what it is. It was my meticulousness that drove me into this craft and how I wanted to achieve a clean and classy nail look which we could often see only on pinterest and instagram. It was never in my plans to pursue this as a career as it was only a hobby turned passion for me.
What’s it like studying the technique? What parts of it were your favourite and which ones came as a surprise?
Studying the technique can be quite meticulous but the meticulousness is what piqued my excitement. The attention to detail and the focus is what got me into the art and craft of Russian Manicure. It takes a lot of patience and practice to achieve the most perfect manicure and the process is what I enjoyed the most.
Discovering more about how nail health is more than just cuticle oil and going in depth with how consistent manicures can change your nails health and appearance within months came to a surprise for me as I never thought my nails could actually grow nice and long considering I myself have small nail beds.
How different is this style and technique from the regular salon manicure?
Unlike traditional manicure, as I mentioned, Russian manicure utilizes special tools like electric files with bits in various grits and coarseness to gently buff away dead skin and cuticles without soaking the nails in any liquids or solutions. This method allows for greater precision and attention to detail. While traditional manicure may involve cutting or trimming the cuticles, Russian manicure focuses on gently removing excess skin and cuticle growth.
As compared to our usual salon manicures, us Russian Manicurists take pride in training and learning the method for months to specialize the technique giving the best and cleanest manicure you can ever have!
What’s the science behind the Russian manicure being a healthier option?
If done by a professionally trained technician, Russian Manicure can be the most healthy, most gentle technique suitable for all skin types as the technique exfoliates dead skin rather than cutting or over cutting which we often experience in most traditional manicures. Dry skin on our skin and nails is due to the trauma that is caused onto our skin and nails as it is our skin’s natural response to create a protective barrier when it has experienced any kind of trauma. A Russian Manicure gently buffs away that trauma slowly and progressively healing the skin and with the use of a structured base which is commonly used in the technique, we strengthen the nail plate allowing it to grow stronger and healthier without any chips or damage.
It’s a completely different style and culture to how getting nails done —how do you explain this to new clients and people who have never experienced getting a set from a freelance artist?
Prior to doing a client’s nails, I brief them with what the technique is, interview them a little bit about their past manicure experiences and explain the differences. I tell them the reasons behind each step to ensure their comfort throughout the entire session. But prior to all of this, they have already been briefed prior to setting up an appointment and are free to consult regarding any issue regarding their nails, may it be online or during our appointment.
What do you love about being a freelance nail care specialist/artist?
There’s nothing more satisfying than a happy client on my chair. Seeing smiles on my clients’ faces after each session just makes me love my job even more. Making friends along the way and developing bonds and emotional connections with such strong women.
MODELS Missy Bendaña, Maria Sanches, Ysabella Tupas @ Luminary Models