High Jewellery: Cartier jewels inspired by travel and the beauty of the world
In Florence, Cartier presented its latest collection of high jewellry, which sparkles with enchanting gems inspired by travel and the beauty of the world.
Cartier, a jewellry house with more than 170 years of history, has chosen Florence for the presentation of its new collection "Le Voyage Recommencé", thus providing an opportunity to get to know the pieces that illuminate the essence of this house in a new light in an endlessly creative environment.
For the launch, Cartier hosted a party in the courtyard of the Palazzo Corsini, one of Florence's most special locations, home to works by Rubens, Fra Angelico and Caravaggio. Famous for its historical and artistic importance, the palace has been transformed into an enchanting space where important personalities of the jewellry house have been invited, from Cartier ambassadors to friends: Gong Li, Vanessa Kirby, Elle Fanning, Golshifteh Farahani, Kimberly Woltem, Tara Emad, Adrien Brody, Riley Keough, Stéphane Bak and Pom Klementieff. The event concluded with a dinner with Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron, accompanied by Cartier ambassador and singer Labrinth.
At the same time, an exhibition of selected Cartier high jewellry pieces was held in Tuscany at the Villa Reale di Marlia . The event was entrusted to the architect and designer and close friend of this house, Patricia Urquiola, who also worked on the previous presentations of the Sixième Sens (2021) collections. Using 80 showcases and 350 pieces, the immensely talented Spanish designer has created a mesmerizing exhibition that combines refined and organic elements that illustrate Cartier's sources of inspiration.
A journey through the essence of this fashion house is presented through a new and unexpected prism. "This collection became a great opportunity to dive into the essence of Cartier style. It's a journey back to the heart of Cartier's creation, a story told without interruption in the flow of time," says Jacqueline Karachi, creative director of high jewellry.
"Sama" and movement
To give life and dispel static - that was the task of this necklace. The visual composition revolves around a 19.27-carat Ceylon sapphire, creating the impression of movement. Inspired by the dress of whirling dervishes, the necklace is woven from swirling loops. Computer-aided design was used to create the Sama necklace, which precisely measured the three-dimensional structures around the neck. Every slope, volume, proportion is measured to the nearest millimeter. In order to ensure that the curves of the jewellry fit as close to the skin as possible, it is equipped with invisible joints.
Claustura and geometry
Characteristic gemstones are what Cartier designs for in general. The Claustura necklace resembles a veil of diamonds, with an exquisite 4.02 carat stone at its center. The light shines gracefully in the exquisite relief of the necklace, the onyx used in the mix with openwork details and diamonds create a contrast characteristic of this jewelry house. Continuing the tradition of transformable jewellry, this necklace can be separated into two parts. It was an ambitious technical challenge to create the illusion of unity, but also to ensure that it could transform into individual pieces of jewellry.
The jewellers worked diligently to ensure that the two pieces held firmly together. The individual pieces come together to form a single necklace with raised and recessed motifs that create a wonderfully cohesive aesthetic. The combination of black and white was domesticated by Cartier in the early 20th century, even before the Art Deco period. So it doesn't matter if onyx, enamel or lacquer is used for this - this jewelry house perfectly understood the power of black to emphasize the geometry of the jewelry.
Panthère Givrée and the legendary panther
This necklace is an example of stylization and figuration. First, the panther's head itself, which is extremely realistic, from the tip of the nose to the almond-shaped emerald eyes and erect ears. Her body is made of geometric shapes and spots of onyx. The panther appears to guard three 20.33-carat aquamarines, with which a fine lapis lazuli gently contrasts and composes the composition.
The panther has been Cartier's animal for many years . Her fur motif was first borrowed by Louis Cartier in 1914, decorating a platinum, diamond and onyx watch. The spotted motif turned into a real sensation, and the panther took its first steps in the jewelry world. Jeanne Toussaint, who was appointed creative director in 1933, made this motif iconic. From Daisy Fellowes and Maríos Félix to Vanessa Kirby, many personalities today see in the Cartier panther a sensual, independent, free-spirited alter ego.
