Cecilie Bahnsen: The end of innocence for Autumn/Winter 2024

In the heart of the Palais de Tokyo, a large-scale installation of an apple created by 10 Tons is intriguing... The fruit seems to be the common thread of the upcoming parade. The designer explains. "I wanted to explore new directions this season, evolving the brand's codes through meaning and care, with a relentless dedication to creativity and beauty. Embracing a darker side of romance and interpreting a wider range of emotions, while remaining true to an uncompromising connection to femininity and craftsmanship. Our collaborator, artist Casper Sejersen, suggested a concept for my show centered around an apple, which immediately resonated . For me, an apple represents desire. Love. Strength. Beauty. But it is also banal. I am attracted by this juxtaposition of high and low, by the clash between luxury and everyday life. I I felt a connection with Casper's work, with the limit of the beauty of his images, an undercurrent of darkness, something inexplicable. The idea of ​​the bite is to let a little innocence behind you, which, in a way, seemed very relevant to me for this season." These are Cecilie Bahnsen's first notes for her autumn-winter 2024-25 collection , The Bite .

Thus, a new expression of Cecilie Bahnsen 's vision is presented with an emphasis on the clash of materials: shiny leather against soft, barely veiled organza, shiny nylon combined with matte knits. There are oversized, thick cable knits draped over soft dresses, as well as sheer layers in reference to the sensuality of Victorian-inspired nightgowns, made from a liquid fabric, barely grazing the body. Oversized organza hoods, reminiscent of fairy tale motifs, are worn with outerwear and knitwear. The cut and fitted leather jackets, skirts and dresses are made from shiny leather, giving the collection a darker romantic character, while remaining true to the brand's usual feminine silhouettes. The collection's fabrics focus on reimagining flat surfaces like organza, nylon and cotton with embroidery and laser cutting techniques, transforming them into 3D textiles full of movement, sound, texture and texture. emotions. Large-scale floral embroidery is everywhere, inspired by Kiki Smith's flower prints. The cotton is glued with silver vinyl and laser cut with endless little flowers, creating a fabric in perpetual bloom.

In terms of colour palette, 13 all-black looks, before giving way to a new energy — moving from darkness and gloom to dreamlike, almost ghostly whites and greys. A hint of indigo denim and rich navy knits are balanced by the softest tones of white and light grey, with subtle touches of sand and autumnal browns, not forgetting a hint of silver, shiny and lustrous textures.

Credits: Cecilie Bahnsen