Chanel: From Coco to Lagerfeld, to Blazy - The Story of a Revolutionary Maison
Discover the history of Chanel, from the genius of Coco to the relaunch with Lagerfeld, up to the new era of Matthieu Blazy. What links - stylistically speaking - the young Belgian designer to the Maison? A journey through revolution, elegance and timeless innovation.
The history of the House of Chanel is a tale of revolution in style and, more generally, in culture . A history, a phenomenon and an imagery that has literally defined the concept of timeless luxury. Through a selection of iconic images from our archives of L'Officiel (and beyond), we explore the evolution of the House, from its beginnings under the visionary guidance of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel to the new era announced by Matthieu Blazy .
Coco Chanel 's feminine revolution
Founded in 1910 in Paris, Chanel began as a hat boutique at 21 rue Cambon . Coco Chanel revolutionized women's fashion, freeing it from corsets and introducing what we know today as the comfy , elegant yet modern style. Symbols such as the tweed suit , the little black dress and the 2.55 bag became icons of timeless style. Her minimalist and functional aesthetic redefined the image of women, making them increasingly independent and self-confident.
Chanel's influence was not limited to clothing: in 1921 , she launched Chanel No. 5 , the most iconic perfume in the world, which became the symbol of luxury and elegance.
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The 1940s: A Period of Inactivity and Controversy
World War II marked a dark period for Chanel. In 1939 , Coco closed the House, believing it inappropriate to continue with fashion during the war. During the German occupation of Paris, she focused exclusively on the perfume Chanel No. 5. During those years, the designer lived at the Ritz Hotel, where she had a controversial relationship with a Gestapo officer, Hans Günther von Dincklage.
This choice raised accusations of collaborationism, leading to a brief arrest after the liberation of Paris. To escape the controversy, she moved to Switzerland , remaining away from the public scene for several years.
The 50s: The Great Comeback
In 1954 , Coco Chanel returned to fashion, relaunching her brand with a new collection. Initially criticized in France, she found success abroad, especially in the United States. It was during this period that the great classics were born, such as the tweed suit , reinterpreted with a modern and practical vision. Celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy helped to strengthen the image of the brand as a synonym of elegance.
The 70s: The demise of Coco Chanel
Coco Chanel worked tirelessly until her death in 1971. The House entered a phase of creative decline, unable to adapt to the rapid changes in the fashion system of the 1970s. However, great classics, such as the 2.55 bag and the iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume, continued to be extremely popular.
1983: The rebirth with Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel's real revival came with Karl Lagerfeld , who was appointed creative director in 1983. Lagerfeld transformed the brand into a global powerhouse, respecting the codes of the Maison but renewing them with a modern and decidedly stronger touch . Under his leadership, the double C logo became an icon, and the great classics, such as the tweed suit and the 2.55 it-bag, were reinterpreted to conquer the new generations as well.
"Elegance is an attitude. It is a way of walking, of speaking, of moving," Karl Lagerfeld.
Chanel's Rebirth with Karl Lagerfeld in the 80s
"I don't like the past. I only like the present and the future," Karl Lagerfeld.
Lagerfeld also pioneered the fusion of fashion, pop culture and the jet set , making Chanel a global status symbol. After more than three decades at the helm, and his passing in 2019, Karl Lagerfeld has left behind an extraordinary creative legacy that continues to profoundly influence the world of fashion.
His ability to reinterpret the codes of the past with a unique language has inspired some of the most celebrated designers of our time, including Alessandro Michele , Jeremy Scott , Heidi Slimane , Pierpaolo Piccioli , and John Galliano , who have been able to collect and transform Lagerfeld's lesson into their own personal vision.
From the 90s to Lagerfeld's death
Matthieu Blazy: the future of Chanel
In 2019 , the baton passed to Virginie Viard , Lagerfeld's long-time collaborator. With a more intimate and feminine approach, Viard led the fashion house while respecting traditions. Her collections told of a sober elegance and the artisanal roots of the Maison, and dialogued with the needs of a contemporary woman.
A few days ago, however, Chanel announced a new era with the arrival of Matthieu Blazy as creative director. His previous work, particularly at Bottega Veneta , was distinguished by a refined attention to detail, fine fabrics and an aesthetic extremely recognizable. There are many elements that bring his stylistic language closer to that of Chanel: the French Maison has always valued artisanal excellence, and Blazy, with his mastery in describing the beauty of materials, seems the ideal candidate for continue this tradition.
The aesthetics of Matthieu Blazy
Blazy also shares a vision of fashion that favors studied simplicity and functionality, transforming each piece into a perfect balance between form and uniqueness. His aesthetic , contemporary but never excessive, dialogues harmoniously with the sober and eternal style of Chanel. It is fresh and never banal.
Will Blazy be able to reinterpret the codes of the fashion house par excellence with the same visionary allure as Lagerfeld, keeping the essence of Coco alive?
Images by Getty Images / L'Officiel Archives
