Fashion

Everything you need to know about the Dior Tears Autumn 2023 capsule collection

A meeting of the elegant and the idiosyncratic, the capsule collection of the designer invited by the House, the founder and creator of Denim Tears, Tremaine Emory incorporates an idea of the American archetype with the impeccable French savoir-faire.

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For Tremaine Emory, founder and creator of Denim Tears, and creative director of Supreme; the connection between Paris and New York was evident , it was a jazz trip. A dialogue between the two cities, via New Orleans, can be found in the Dior Tears collection. “I want to share that moment in time, that beautiful moment when black writers and musicians and artists came from America, fled America and found some level of acceptance in certain European cities and could have their art respected and who respect themselves. It wasn't perfect but it was just a moment, a beautiful moment for black people to have the privilege and the opportunity to escape the terror, the horrors of America, a segregated Jim Crow America. Artists like Miles Davis and writers like James Baldwin found refuge in Paris," Emory said in an official statement. The Dior Tears collection is based on denim : the fabric's origins might be French after all, coming from Serge de Nimes , with special jacquards and discharge prints developed and added to heritage fabrics, with 1950s shapes preserved. While sartorial sensibility is heightened , with the skills of the Dior atelier , both universes merge into a unique aesthetic lyricism that defines contemporary man. The collection reveals between the lines how a casual piece of American culture meets French high craftsmanship ; The mixing and cross-fertilization of fashion and cultural codes in the collection reflect the movement and influence of the great African American jazz musicians who traveled to Europe to play. They were inspired by what they found in Paris and were in turn an inspiration for Paris itself, promoting the avant-garde culture of the most advanced city at the time. The collection reflects this in its very origins.

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Fall 2023 Dior Tears Capsule Collection by Dior. Image courtesy of the brand.

Also the visual codes of the collection are very inspired by the look of the Black Ivy League students of the 50s and 60s; and in the despised style of jazz musicians of the same period. On the other hand, there is also a nod to the civil rights movement that existed simultaneously with both, where work clothes were also worn. Here, preppy meets the origins of what was defined as cool through the world of work in archetypal Americana garments like unpretentious plaid shirts, rugged jackets, and effortless chinos combined with the sartorial elegance of coats. classic wool , a sinuous tailored suit and elegant accessories in cognac leather , such as a trumpet bag. In many ways, the collection is a microcosm of Denim Tears and the world it occupies. Emory's collections deal directly with the African diaspora, particularly the diaspora experience in the United States. Adding to this conversation, Dior Tears also incorporates a dialogue with France. Here, the signs, symbols and motifs such as the cotton flower and the necklace, as well as the general narrative of this collection. The journey of jazz, with its roots in Africa, is a complex one that changed the world. It is fitting then that the collection is displayed in Egypt, on the site of one of the cradles of the civilization that changed the world. It is presented in the form of a tableau vivant , surrounded by the antiquities of one of the greatest civilizations of all in The Grand Egyptian Museum .

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