The courage of ERDEM women and the spring summer 2025 fashion show
Erdem Moralıoğlu brings a tale of androgyny inspired by the writer Radclyffe Hall to London Fashion Week. Under the colonnade of the British Museum he presents the women's collection for spring summer 2025.
Inspired by the story of “The Well of Lonliness” by Radclyffe Hall (an openly gay woman) who wrote a poetic and almost autobiographical book (published only in 1928) Erdem Moralıoğlu presents his new collection at London Fashion Week . The plot of the novel tells the story of Stephen Gordon, a woman who lived as if she were a man, engaged to Mary Llewellyn. Like the writer, his protagonist wore men's clothes, as if she were a dandy of the nineteenth century.
On the seating a carnation, a flower worn in the buttonhole of the jacket as a symbol of men's elegance. The collection immediately catches the eye with its tailoring of women's suits approached with a masculine gaze, double-breasted jackets, mint-colored suits and coats by the British tailoring house of Saville Row. All this is contrasted with women's dresses with an decó character with embroidery, crystal applications, see-through dresses and dresses with all-over carnation floral patterns. Also striking are the references to Radclyffe's look such as the magnifying glass positioned at the level of the buttonhole and the use of men's pinstripes.
“You are neither unnatural, nor abominable, nor insane; you are as much a part of what people call nature as anyone else,” wrote Radclyffe Hall in her book. With this show, ERDEM confirms itself as one of the most cultural moments of London Fashion Week. And in addition to being a dynamic and decorative collection, this time it is a story of courage and female pride.
