Balenciaga's 53rd Couture collection inspired by subcultures
The 53rd Balenciaga Couture collection highlights know-how through original techniques and material innovations. The streetwear, gothic, skater and metal subcultures interact with the Couture language of the House.
As usual, Demna likes to think big for Balenciaga , and he's doubling down on his Couture collections. Influences from the House's archives are omnipresent, but twisted by skillfully modernized processes and finishes. A first example: a minimalist and sharp t-shirt is hand lined with black satin to give it a rarefied effect. This tee reflects a Warhol inspiration: whether the base product is a soup can or an everyday shirt, Demna is interested not only in the intrigue of the object itself, but also in the techniques used to elevate this object to the rank of an art form. Three of Cristóbal Balenciaga 's codes are applied to Demna 's stylistic vocabulary: the cocoon silhouette, which emphasizes the space between the garment and the body, the three-quarter bell-shaped sleeve and the extravagant, almost eccentric headwear. Leather, denim and nylon jackets wrap the body and give it structured volume, while three-quarter length sleeves adorn a hand-painted hoodie and t-shirt by artist Abdelhak Benallou, as well as a trompe l'oeil couture styling coat: a piece of synthetic hair shaped and dyed by hand by hairstylist Gary Gill (it takes approximately 2.5 months to make this garment). The hats feature hand-draped and frozen resin t-shirts, made in collaboration with artist Ni Hao, or carbon fiber bodies made in collaboration with artist Alastair Gibson.
More surprisingly, this collection echoes the magic, the poetry and the ephemeral nature of this experience — draping and undraping — in the butterfly motifs found here and there. These creatures are fragile, delicate and extraordinary — they are of perfect design. The butterfly veils are the result of hundreds of hours of meticulous hand embroidery and are inspired by artist Yumi Okita. They symbolize transformation, hope and freedom.
Finally, the final six silhouettes examine the possibilities of materials and how they can evolve and be reconsidered in regards to their relationship with the body. Remember that the development of materials was also at the heart of Cristóbal Balenciaga 's work.
