Fashion

Is vegan leather eco-friendly?

The fashion industry is paying more and more attention to the use of vegan leather. It is often touted as a more environmentally friendly alternative to traditional leather. But is it really as sustainable as we think?

furniture table tabletop wood screwdriver tool weapon sword blade knife

Sustainability is an important aspect that many of us consider in our daily lives. We try to live more environmentally conscious and choose products that have a lower impact on the environment. In the fashion world, too, we want to pay more attention to sustainable materials.

A lie of the fashion industry

Veganism is a way of life that aims to avoid animal suffering. Every year , over a billion animals are killed and skinned worldwide to make animal leather. Many people prefer vegan leather (faux leather) because it is free from animal products . However, very few people know that the material from which vegan leather is made is often a mixture of different synthetic materials such as polyurethane (PU) andpolyvinyl chloride (PVC).

These plastics have a poor environmental record and are difficult to recycle. In addition, plastic is petroleum-based and produces toxins during production, which are not only harmful to the environment, but also to the people who work in the factories. Similar to plastic bottles, vegan leather takes a very long time to biodegrade.

Photo of two children on a beach full of plastic waste
Since the 1960s, global plastics production has increased from 15 million tons to 391 million tons (2021) annually. Photo: Pexels © Ron Lach

The trend is to avoid plastic. Refillable drinking bottles, paper straws and the guilty conscience when you forgot your cloth bag at home when you went shopping and have to buy a plastic carrier bag in the supermarket. The irony of vegan leather creates the belief that you are acting in an environmentally responsible manner while walking through the city in a plastic outfit.

In addition to ignorance and avoiding animal suffering, the price is probably an important factor when buying vegan leather. It is cheaper than conventional leather and, with high-quality manufacture, is durable and hard-wearing. It seems like a good solution for people who are allergic to animal leather.

Alternatives to faux leather

However, there are other options for leather that are more eco-friendly and vegan. Plant-based materials are the more sustainable option and are becoming increasingly popular.

Pinatex

Pineapple with sunglasses
dr Carmen Hijosa presented Piñatex for the first time at the doctoral exhibition at the Royal College of Art in London. Photo: Pexels © Živa-Trajbarič

Piñatex is an innovative material made from the fibers of pineapple leaves. The leaves, which are otherwise regarded as waste products, are given a new use. The material is durable, water-repellent and breathable. The leather alternative was invented by the Spaniard Dr. Carmen Hijosa. On a business trip to the Philippines, she discovered that weavers were making the traditional Barong Tagalog shirt from the fibers of the pineapple leaves.

mushroom leather

Mushrooms
A fungus consists for the most part of the mycelium, which in turn consists of thread-like cells (hyphae). Photo: Pexels © Cottonbro Studio

Mushroom leather is an alternative to synthetic leather made from the mycelium (the root system) of mushrooms. It is biodegradable and decomposes within a few weeks. The material is tear-resistant, water-repellent and breathable.

Mushrooms can be grown anywhere in the world, so the material can be crafted almost anywhere. Another benefit: they only need to grow for about two weeks before they can be harvested. The innovative mushroom leather has already been used by major brands such as Ganni, Hermés and Stella McCartney .

cork leather

bottle cork
Most cork leather is produced in Portugal. Photo: Pexels © Jonathan Borba

Cork leather is made from the ever-growing bark of cork oaks . The tree is not damaged and can be harvested about every nine years. Cork leather is just as tear-resistant and stable as real animal leather. Only the middle layer is processed for the manufacture of clothing, as this is the best quality and delicacy. Bottle corks or floor coverings are made from the remaining layers.

apple leather

Red apples
The apple leather is resource-saving and vegan. Photo: Pixels © Hatice Noğman

Apple leather is an innovative vegan leather option made from the waste from juice production. The pomace from the skin, stalks and fibers is processed into a leather-like material that is durable and water-resistant. The only disadvantage: some manufacturers use a plastic such as PU as a binding agent. However, more and more biodegradable plastic alternatives are being used, making apple leather a sustainable alternative.

cactus leather

prickly pear
The prickly pear, also known as nopal, grows quite profusely in Mexico. There it is also used as food. Photo: Pixels © Fandy Much

The Mexican start-up Desserto developed the cactus leather and has already supplied it to major brands such as Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld and Mercedes-Benz. The two founders, Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez, wanted to offer an environmentally friendly alternative to conventional leather. The cactus leather is made from the prickly pear and is particularly resistant, breathable and durable.

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