Jacquemus: the fashion show in Capri

After last January's fashion show among Giacometti's sculptures at the Maeght Foundation, Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrates 15 years of his fashion house in Capri . The idea was born about a year ago. «Last year» , he tells us, «the print of this photo embroidered on my jacket worn at the Met Gala attracted the attention of the homeowners. Moved, they decided to invite me to Capri." The photograph worn by Jacquemus is part of a series of polaroids taken by Karl Lagerfeld in November 1997, aimed at exploring the integration between the design of Casa Malaparte and the surrounding nature, and published in two volumes in 1998. The house is located on a steep and narrow rocky promontory in the south-eastern part of Capri, Punta Massullo, which almost seems to rise from the sea. It was designed by Adalberto Libera for the writer and journalist Curzio Malaparte between the 30s and 40s of the last century. «Don't call it Villa Malaparte» , writes Lagerfeld in his commentary on the two volumes, «Curzio Malaparte hated the word "villa", quintessence of everything that is "bourgeois". He was a man of mercurial political opinions, but above all he was a prolific writer and the architect of a unique masterpiece. Casa Malaparte is the vision of a man without visible influences. Built in the 1930s, it has nothing in common with the Italian architecture of those times. It is not even touched by the then so influential ideas of the Bauhaus, but it is still absolutely modern. There is no other house like this in the world."

To the tune of "Histoire d'un amour" by Dalida, the minimalist and geometric silhouettes of Jacquemus ' ready-to-wear autumn winter 2024 show flow. The clothes develop according to a trapezoidal shape. When the volumes are not generous - outerwear is imposing as are the lapels, in a bold version - they become impalpable, leaving room for a subtle sensuality. The colour palette ranges from colour blocks of red, yellow ocher and sky blue, to zebra graphics, up to white and navy blue. Nappa leather, with its soft texture, is the protagonist of the fashion show at Casa Malaparte. As well as scarves à la Dolce Vita . On the feet, square espadrilles and double-heeled sandals. And to enrich the collection the inevitable bags: clutch, cross-body, tote.