Jonathan Anderson's fandom and the show at London Fashion Week
Previewed with an invitation in collaboration with Michael Clark's dance company, Jonathan Anderson pays homage to the British choreographer at London Fashion Week with the autumn winter 2023-24 women's collection.
Being influenced, letting oneself be conditioned by an attitude or by well-defined cultural references. All of this is the basis of JW Anderson's fall winter 2023-24 women's collection. «Looking back is not something I do often, but sometimes it seems necessary to move forward. The past can be a lens that focuses the future» , explains Jonathan Anderson after the show in the heart of the installation on site at the Roundhouse . « Even Michael Clark resists looking back, despite having a corpus of works populated by images that are imprinted in our collective consciousness» explains quoting the British choreographer and dancer as well as a faithful friend of Anderson «He is not only a choreographer of bodies, but of British culture in general. This is basically a fandom collection. Fandom is something strange: completely personal, often irrational, often embarrassing. As I dug through my archive to prepare for this show, digging up items from every collection from the past fifteen years, Michael allowed me to rummage through his and helped me pinpoint my obsessions."
In search of a reconciliation with the past, Jonathan Anderson presents a structured autumn-winter 2023-24 wardrobe on the catwalk with: dresses trimmed with dangling drapes, velvet suits, flared coats, super fluffy top-sleeves, pullovers with bold details, silver leather, fluid satin suits. All worn with a pair of leather shoes that reproduce animal paws. A champion of provocation, Jonathan Anderson also inserts phallic silhouettes on t-shirts, bags from the British supermarket Tesco and talking T-shirts with the words "The Dentist", "Sham Man", "Y Male" and "Witch?". And again coats with bold version collars, crop tops that become capes, sculptural and asymmetrical silhouettes. «I think this was the right moment to reflect on the past and it was fun, I find it a really liberating process. Because every time I hate my creations from the past, instead this time it was nice to try to improve them in some way» concluded Jonathan Anderson backstage.
A collection with roots in the past but looking to the future. More wearable than usual and full of cultural references that over time have become Jonathan Anderson's fetish.
Scroll to discover the front-row at the JW Anderson show
