Courrèges' new sexy at PFW
It was at the Carreau du Temple that Nicolas Di Felice, artistic director of the House, presented his spring-summer 2025 collection.
At the center of the stage, the equivalent of a vacuum filled with metal balls, whose perpetual movement recreates the sound of waves. Known for its retro-futuristic aesthetic, Maison Courrèges likes to have fun with the codes of innovation, and this entry into the field — simple, without being so simple, visually striking, and which we would never have thought of — reflects this ongoing desire. The spring-summer 2025 collection imagined by Nicolas Di Felice follows a chromatic palette of whites and blacks, sometimes nudes, and plays between the hidden and the revealed. Forty silhouettes are presented — we spot among the models on the catwalk Irina Shayk , Vittoria Ceretti and Loli Bahia —, which form parallel lines on the ground with the very low waist of the pants, the bondage-style strap that runs to the knee, or the crop tops that become nothing more than very thin rectangles like censorship bands at chest level. The dresses and jackets are a play of geometric articulations and interpenetrations of solid volumes, sometimes monolithic, sometimes so light that they even seem to flee. If the torso is covered, the back is very low-cut, like a holy water stoup from space, all curves and fullness, or simply dressed with a thin belt.
