"La Fenice" the Schiaparelli haute couture fashion show autumn winter 2024-25

Schiaparelli officially opened the haute couture week calendar with the fashion show entitled "La Fenice" autumn winter 2024-25 . Daniel Roseberry - always skilled at reinterpreting the career of the brand's founder - decided to take inspiration from when Elsa Schiaparelli wore a dress painted by Dunand, made up of a stole of swan feathers that was wrapped around the shoulders. In itself the look paid homage to the great ballerina Anna Pavlova, who died in the same year, with whom Schiaparelli was often mistaken for her short, black hair and sharp features. But if Pavlova has always been associated with her iconic performance in “The Dying Swan”, Elsa Schiaparelli has always been a Phoenix, a resilient magical creature who possesses the ability to reinvent herself.

And here winged women parade on the catwalk, dresses covered in claws and blazers with red feathered lapels. «Each piece is clear in its silhouette and its technique» says Daniel Roseberry «It is possible to see the origins of each look, how each one went from the sketch, to the study and to the fabric. Above all, each dress is intended to arouse some kind of emotion, even if—to paraphrase Hemingway—a deeply controlled emotion. This broader design is the ever-expanding universe of the Maison Schiaparelli."

I was recently told that “people don't buy Schiaparelli, they collect it”. This type of loyalty is inspired exclusively by a unique relationship between customer and creation. This is what makes Haute Couture so special: it is the expression of my vision of the Maison today, free from marketing and merchandising. But it's also something else: a way to honor this relationship, one of the most intimate in the world, one in which I give women the power to be reborn, again and again and again." Daniel Roseberry