Thom Browne the career of the American fashion designer always in uniform
The career of the American designer who revolutionized men's fashion by combining a passion for sport, irony and work uniforms.
A Thom Browne suit is a suit for life. Impeccable fit, very elegant narrow lapels, slightly shortened trousers that reveal the ankles, blazers that redesign the body and those small and imperceptible badges that make the difference such as the visible square label or the grosgrain with the brand colors blue, white and red. Mike Albo in the New York Times had credited him with having : «Created a completely new look for professional men, inspiring them to dress accurately again after years of casual wear, surfer laziness and baseball caps worn to work » .
Originally from Pennsylvania, born in 1965, with a degree in economics, Thom Browne decided to take the road of acting (for a period) and then had his first work experience in 1997 as a sales clerk in the Giorgio Armani showroom in New York. But the first to notice the creative potential was Ralph Lauren , who recognized his genius at Club Monaco and offered him (subject to some doubts because he had never faced the style office before) a position in his company's design and merchandising division. In 2001, he stopped to launch his eponymous brand, initially buying second-hand clothes from Brooks Brothers and experimenting with cuts and fits to get his aesthetic. Then in 2006 Browne proved to be the perfect candidate for the high-end Black Fleece collection and signed a collaboration contract with the brand. In the same year, he received the CFDA award for best designer of the year in the menswear division and after two years, he assumed the creative helm for the Gamme Bleu men's collection of the Italian down jacket brand Moncler . Only in 2011 did he add the women's line of his brand by presenting a fashion show during New York Fashion Week because, as he explained: «There is no dividing line between men's and women's fashion, it's always just a matter of cut».
THE INSPIRATIONS
In his collections we find aesthetic inspirations linked to the cinematography of Charlie Chaplin, the literature of Charles Baudelaire, semiotic references torn from punk culture and fantastic universes populated by animals . Another element that is never missing in Thom Browne's collections is childhood , the first age of the human being which plays a fundamental role in the creative practice of the stylist: «I like to make people think when they are confronted with my work , but I don't want to fall into seriousness, so I always add an irreverent or ironic touch».
"I want to provoke, interest, even fascinate. I like to repeat an idea to the point of making it almost annoying. Repetition creates rigidity, which in turn generates a feeling of discomfort and that's where it gets interesting." Thom Browne
UNIFORMS extension
Obsessed with uniforms, Thom Browne designs tons of tailored suits, workwear uniforms and tailored formal suits. Most of the time they are tailored suits they turn to gray scales and come in a super fit, strictly with visible shirt cuffs, slightly shortened trousers or even shorts or pleated skirts that reach the knee. To this clothing base considered formal and elegant, the design is re-edited with volumes, unexpected fabrics (such as seersucker or felt) and finally inspirational influences from the collection are added.
PERFORMANCES AND FASHION SHOWS
The American designer has always shown particular attention to the presentations of his fashion shows. From him everyone always expects interpretations of roles, performative actions, extras who play, strongly theatrical performances or artistic installations created ad hoc. Hosted at the 75th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo 2009 in Florence in the halls of the Istituto di Scienze Militari Aeronautiche Thom Browne led a uniformed performance of office workers tapping repeatedly on their Olivetti typewriters. Everyone wore mainly the same look, very elegant and impeccable. But among the most performative fashion moments we remember the gardeners who cut the grass for the spring summer 2019 fashion show, Noah's Ark populated by animals , the metallic fauns of the spring summer 2013 fashion show or the living sculpture garden of the spring summer fashion show 2022.
HECTOR A MUSE FOR THOM
Hector is the dachshund adopted by Thom Browne and his partner Andrew Bolton , curator of the Costume Institute of the Met-Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. An icon-dog who has become like a muse for Thom Browne to whom he has dedicated collections, prints and the famous Hector Bag . He was asked several times why he chose to take animals into consideration and he replied to L'Officiel : «Maybe at the beginning the idea of going to the office, for example, with a pig on your arm might be intimidating, but instead you just need to bring the accessory without making too many problems. The animals in themselves symbolize innocence and purity, in this case I think they represent well the authenticity of the intuition behind the product».
SKETCH AND SILHOUETTE
Abstract and geometric designs summarize the silhouettes of the looks proposed by Thom Browne. Aesthetically, beautiful. Small explanatory works of art that follow the exaggerated silhouettes that are proposed in his collections. Symmetries and asymmetries, abstract patterns that break up, dresses that retrace the shape of the body and others that distort the traditional figure.
THE LINK WITH SPORT
The American designer has always demonstrated his passion for sports . From the men's spring summer 2008 fashion show inspired by water sports and the American football inspirations that become advertising campaigns , up to the graphics that fill the ultra-fit suits. Thom Browne has always been a great interpreter of the sports universe, but always with his American preppy and fun twist. The designer had also started a collaboration with FC Barcelona to dress the players in suits during the gala days. Sometimes, however, he has involved famous athletes of global reach for his collections such as the ski mountaineer Lindsey Vonn for the autumn winter 2021 collection or James Whiteside , principal dancer of the American Ballet Theater who closed the spring summer 2020 show.
SINNING IRRIVERENCE
There's a kinky side to Thom Browne too . The designer has exercised his most erotic streak several times during his career, sometimes in a shameless way and other times in a more subtle way while maintaining a sexy and at the same time fun appeal. From the jockstraps that supported the lower part of the silhouette with a deliberately sexy intention (a jockstrap underwear initially used by American sports athletes) for the spring summer 2023 men's collection up to the men's bras worn with pride. The flagship that caught the attention of the entire fashion system, the jockstrap complete with prince albert.
THE SETTINGS OF THE FASHION SHOWS
Each fashion show is a new world for Thom Browne who adds to the list of inspirations. Amazing paintings, wonderful locations , performative actions and ad hoc settings . The attention that Thom Browne employs for the presentation of the collections and his fashion shows is certainly not indifferent. From the enchanting settings covered in snow, up to the gardens populated by performers who become tableau vivant.
MET GALA AND CELEBRITIES
The American brand is also loved by stars and celebrities who show off extravagant and very elegant custom-made looks during the Met Gala red carpet (opening evening of the Costume Institute exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York). Among the memorable looks we remember the wonderful Lizzo with her transverse flute, Solange on ice skates, Cardi B 's exaggerated dress up to Jordan Roth 's gowns, Adam Brody 's tails and the completely deconstructed couple Travis Barker and Kourtney Kardashian .
