Uncovering the Latest Fashion Brands
Now that the Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks are over, let's discover the collections of the new fashion brands not to be missed for next spring summer.
Once the fashion weeks are over, it's time to take stock of what's new. We have identified the labels of new emerging fashion brands to discover. The collections can be found online on their websites, on the main e-commerce sites or can be purchased from Instagram , many of the new labels are interested in the reuse of materials, in a different approach to tailoring and even in the world of footwear. Inspirations that come from the past, from the future, as long as they always have content to offer, quality of materials, transparency in messages. True luxury is new.
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ADELBEL
High quality Italian manufacturing with the use of fine fabrics and accurate details, 100% Made in Italy, essential and minimalist shapes: these are the values and characteristics of the Adelbel brand, founded by Adele Barbetta . The Italian tailoring tradition and knitwear give life to sophisticated garments, the oversized fits and geometric cuts are perfect for the unconventional and contemporary woman. For the spring summer 2024 futuristic geometries and oversized volumes reign supreme: neo-Victorian inspired silhouettes meet a more streamlined definition of the silhouette. Knitwear, jersey and technical fabrics - the brand's heritage - combine with retro-futuristic and space-age elements for a new vision of design and a renewed gender identity. The checkered pattern, a recognizable sign of Adelbel, is this time combined with a colour palette of light and pastel colours: beige and cream, shades of green and pink, optical white.
ALL-IN
Born as a magazine and later a clothing brand, ALL-IN - supported by the Swedish Fashion Council - is founded by Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø and is focused on reconstructing existing garments into ready-to-wear garments with unique handcrafted pieces.
Presented in a nightclub in the 15th arrondissement of Paris , the spring summer 2024 collection revolves around the figure of Allina, an emerging pop star who presents her fourth collection. Sprinkled with roses thrown by her adoring fans, pop star Allina whispered and sang her story - the fake singer's song was created by Norwegian musicians Smerz and will be released on streaming platforms at the end of October. The collection draws inspiration from Paul Verhoeven's 1995 film "Showgirls" , Heidi Montag's song and music video "Superficial" and the latest issue of their Fast Fashion-focused magazine. Compared to previous collections in which ALL-IN mainly focused on the combination of materials with different associations, this collection focuses entirely on deconstruction and draping, with the use of disruptive details such as fake pearls, crystals provided by Preciosa , latex and sequins. The brand reintroduced its best-selling Level Boot in a thigh-high version, while the new Belt Pump model debuted .
CHRISTOPHER ESBER
The Australian designer Christopher Esber presented the spring summer 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week playing with the interaction of materials and the body: metal structures (always present as a detail in his collections) accentuate the silhouette, the laces and leather bind on the chest. The palette ranges from gray to sand as a base, passing through brighter shades such as butter yellow, pistachio and red. The works include a series of fabrics with beads that recall carved stones, a rigid and sheer fabric characterised by structural padding that enhances the pointed bust, Ghost Chantilly lace with a double-sided silk boucle and Diamond lace combined with fringes. The inspiration is nature: biomaterial leaf shapes in leather form tailored shapes, laid individually and then connected to create a single piece of fabric on tailored coats, skirts, jackets and stilettos. Translucent pleated dresses, tops and skirts resemble the structure of a glacier.
FLORANIA
Florania - independent, genderless and no-season ready-to-wear clothing brand founded by Flora Rabitti - offers total look garments, made and designed in a responsible manner, which are created in the designer's Milanese atelier and in Mantua (home of the production laboratory ). Among the winners of Camera Moda Fashion Trust 2023 for the Grant “The MAX&Co. Design for Change” (will create a capsule collection for the Max&Co. brand), presented during Milan Fashion Week "The Grotto", the "Cave" of the secret garden of Palazzo Tè in Mantua representing an underground maritime environment. In the spring summer 2024 collection, sailor uniforms inspired by the film ' Querelle De Brest ' by Fassbinder mix with structured 18th century tailored suits with silhouettes inspired by nineteenth-century corsetry, and prints reminiscent of the frescoes of Palazzo Tè, alternating with watercolor drawings of natural landscapes and maritime inspiration for men's looks. For this season the collaboration continues with the Milanese company Readymade Textiles - a company that recovers warehouse waste of men's fabrics including 'Gamps' color proofs - and with Kyocera Corporation - which uses FOREARTH printers with reduced use of water - creating a ad hoc print with Japanese watercolours. In addition to prints, patchwork denim and dyes, the Shibori technique with natural dyes was experimented with for this collection.
Photo by Timothy Bouè-Styling by Giorgia Cantarini
ISA BOULDER
The collections of Isa Boulder , a brand founded by Cecilia Basari and Yuli Sur, are made entirely in a factory in Tangerang, Indonesia to reduce the carbon footprint. The work focuses on high-quality knitwear and swimwear, with workmanship often done. by hand at an artisanal level. Debuting its first collection in Paris, the “ Hardcore Handmade ” collection reflects the focus on craftsmanship and design. Inspired by Bali, the spring summer 2024 collection includes satin and shuny swimsuits, evening dresses with a strong sensual push. The brand's characteristic argyle motif appeared in tops, skirts and bodysuits, alongside macramé and the "Parachute" fabric introduced in shades of pale green, beige and black which complete the colour palette made up of browns, greys, ecru and khaki. There are also accessories, made of satin fabrics that make the small shoulder bags and sandals precious.
RUI
The " Absent " collection by RUI - a brand founded by Rui Zhou in 2019 - explores the duality of life, in particular the aggressiveness towards the outside world. The thorns spread across the silhouette, representing the boundaries of the human being in the environment. The body is wrapped in fabrics and ribbons and the prints are accompanied by crinkled satin reminiscent of snake skin. Between physical space and spiritual space, the collection presented in Paris stops time in a suspended dimension, as in a messy but splendid wonderland. Sensual and subversive, it follows the lingerie-clothing trend, also embracing the concept of bodypositivity with stretch fabrics that shape themselves according to the wearer's body.
TALLER MARBLE
Thirteen classic dresses representative of the brand: the Classics collection by Taller Marmo - a brand founded by Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea - celebrates the best-selling models of the brand in the black and ivory variants that embody the philosophy of the brand, for occasion clothing with a relaxed yet very glamorous spirit. All garments are made in Italy in small and medium-sized factories and are produced only to order, avoiding waste and extra stocks. The materials are a balance between research and innovation: crêpe cady, FSC certified viscose, recycled polyester, sequins made from recycled plastic found in the ocean and feathers sourced from South Africa and assembled by hand in Florence.
TORISHÉJU
Presented for the first time in Paris, Nigerian brand Torishéju 's collection entitled " Fire on the Mountain " examines beauty as deception, a spectacle that attracts us but distorts reality. Designer Torishéju Dumi imagines a surreal and exaggerated luxury thanks to the layering of fabrics such as silk and cotton to create flawless silhouettes. Clothing is distorted through wool jackets and turned inside out to expose silk linings and padded shoulders, showcasing their construction. Skirts, tops and "wrap" dresses show the elegance of nappa leather garments: tied at the hips or lower back, the garments capture the ease of traditional clothing from Yorubaland, the southwestern provinces of Nigeria which extend to the Atlantic coast
TAMA TOBY
TAMA TOBY , a Made in Barcelona brand founded by designer Tamara Toby with experience from Alexander McQueen and Viktor&Rolf , presented the first collection of footwear handmade from waste leather from fashion houses, making each piece unique and tailor-made for the customer. For the launch, a reinterpretation of the boot was presented with its heart-shaped heel, also present in mules and sandals. The sale of the models takes place from the designer's website: the designer has in fact chosen a virtual sales system - each drop will focus on a specific model - active for a certain period of time, to allow the team to create each piece with maximum quality.
ZOMER
Debut at Paris Fashion Week also for Zomer , the Dutch brand founded by designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha, which presents a collection where you can express your creativity, taking inspiration from Pablo Picasso , Carl Grossberg, Marie Laurencin, Christian Schad and George Grosz . The ready-to-wear collection focuses in particular on leather - supplied by ECCO Leather - and then develops a crescendo of unexpected shapes and experimental silhouettes. There is no shortage of floral prints, bright colors in colour blocks, between sophistication and childish playfulness. Not only clothes but also accessories: bags, shoes and jewellery with strong attention to craftsmanship underline the brand's strong connection with art.