The "Bar Paul" by Paul Smith and the men's spring summer 2025 collection
At Villa Favard in Florence Sir. Paul Smith returns to Pitti Uomo 106 to present his spring summer 2025 men's collection. 60s inspirations, looks that celebrate Paul Smith's stars and notable work on the British designer's archive.
«I was among the first designers invited to Pitti, in 1993, and I have always considered it a wonderful opportunity to highlight some of the most beautiful menswear in the world, in a very concrete way» says Paul Smith , «I didn't see It's time to present my collection in a more intimate setting, and this return to Florence seemed like the right opportunity to do so." In the splendid setting of Villa Favard - an example of neoclassical architecture from the second half of the 19th century in Florence - the British designer presents the autumn winter 2025 men's collection.
The villa, recontextualized as "Bar Paul" (a tribute to the Italian cafés that the designer frequented in Soho in the Sixties) becomes the perfect stage to showcase Paul Smith's new creations. During his introduction he mentions Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud, two great sources of inspiration that are refracted in the presentation space with easels and artistic materials provided by Winsor & Newton. Paul Smith's format seems like that of the atelier; he clutches his notes, and model after model ascends the central pedestal, while Sir. Smith describes every single look in detail (16 looks out of a total collection of 33).
While Paul Smith talks about his spring summer 2025 men's collection, there is an intimate atmosphere. He illustrates (with an almost comedic irony) his collection, revealing personal details, his inclination to break the rules of sartorial tradition and his ability to reinterpret archives. «We worked a lot on the looks of our historic celebrities ranging from David Bowie to the Rolling Stones and we decided to interpret some looks in a more 'posh' version with exuberant and fun embroidery. We took some of our archive prints, created garments with a focus on the selection of materials based on weight and created knitwear garments with different processes but made in pieces and entirely with the same machine".
The jackets seem like crossovers between blazers and harrington jackets, easy-to-wear suits, jacquard trousers and denim garments that introduce the new collaboration with the Lee brand. A splendid return to Pitti, with a great confirmation, Paul Smith is capable of entertaining and entertaining with his fashion.