Retori's Rules: An Interview with Founder and Creative Director Salma Rachid
Salma Rachid talks Retori, the brand launched during the latest edition of Milan Fashion Week and built around its connection with art.
Retori, founded this year by Salma Rachid in Milan and part of Alsara Investment Group - a global industrial group founded by Rachid Mohamed Rachid in 2017 - aims to express the art of storytelling through seasonless men's and women's collections. "In the world we live in today, people are always on the move and seasonality has become obsolete due to time zone and regional differences," explains the creative director. "Our collections are divided into chapters: we don't want each collection to question or overshadow the previous one."
L'OFFICIEL: How did you get into the fashion system?
SALMA RACHID : My interest in creations began when my father made me read “The Alchemist” by Paulo Coelho when I was young. I reread it several times because it was like a journey in search of oneself and it was my first approach to the world of art. I believe that art is a silent language that does not need words, universal and made of emotions. Before founding Retori, I had already started the eyewear company Akoni: it has always been my dream to create a brand that was comfortable, elegant and capable of telling the significant messages of artists.
LO: What are the main differences?
SR: Akoni is essentially a medical product, but also aesthetic and can reflect the personality of the wearer. Glasses are based on engineering and the patterns are very complex. Retori is a broader world: it is about practicality, beauty and artistic elements. It has opened up a new universe for me and I am learning every day from all the people I work with.
LO: What are the identifying characteristics of Retori?
SR: My idea is to offer a blank canvas with each collection, so that artists can insert their messages, which is why the aspect of timelessness is central. The garments are versatile and easy to adapt to both casual and formal looks. Each piece tells a story with a message that comes from the artists' vision, and as with art, there is no univocal interpretation. Each collection will be characterized by an element of surprise, as well as a particular attention to the fluidity of the garments, because we are interested in maintaining a relaxed mood. An attitude that makes you perceive that it is a product that is experienced in an intimate way and you can customize based on your mood.
LO: Do you think your origins influence your work?
SR: Maybe indirectly, but it's something that comes more from my cultural background.
LO: And how does your creative process work?
SR: I work with an art curator to select a group of artists, and after careful consideration we choose one. I conduct an interview with the artist and create a list of 10 themes that emerge from their creative practice. We then select phrases and messages to convey, which I submit to the style office. Together we define the aesthetic codes for the collection. Finally, the concepts are translated into knitwear products, or into fabrics and processes that reflect our identity.
LO: The most challenging part?
SR: Maintaining a consistent spirit in each collection, without this being questioned by the artists we work with.
LO: Who are Retori's customers?
SR: They are people who are starting to appreciate the little things in life, wisdom and good advice. Customers who focus on quality rather than big name fashions. Retori is an evolution of minimalism, with more colour and character. I would love to see our pieces worn by people who work in the music industry, collectors and art lovers.
LO: Who did you collaborate with for the “Chapter 01” collection presented at Milan Fashion Week?
SR: We collaborated with two artists - in the future we will only have one to keep it more concise - Diedrick Brackens and Daniella Portillo. Both have created works that recall their roots, so we called the first collection “Roots” and built the whole story around the importance of roots. During the presentation, we involved different disciplines to amplify the message: director and set designer Fabio Cherstich, composer and saxophonist Bendik Giske, food designer Laszlo Badet, up to floral designer Lilo Klinkenberg who made sculptures of grass and earthy roots.
LO: Do you have a message that is close to your heart?
SR: There is an Arabic word that I love; translated it means “to accept with appreciation,” and that is the philosophy we want to embrace.
