Travel

The Insider’s Guide to Mykonos and Santorini

For a first-timer to the Cyclades, a trip to the most popular Greek islands is the perfect balance of excitement and relaxation.

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Greek islands have long topped lists of must-visit destinations, and it’s easy to see why. Greece has thousands of islands and islets scattered throughout its turquoise seas, though only about 200 or so are inhabited. Each island region, of which there are six, offers something for every type of traveler, from hiking and history on Skiathos and Skopelos along the east coast of Greece, to the slower pace of Hydra and Spetses in the Saronic Gulf. Most famous, however, are the Cyclades, which consists of 200-plus islands including Santorini and Mykonos. 

Here is where you’ll find much of what comes to mind when you think of the Greek islands: picturesque white villages, vibrant bougainvillea, and charming fishing boats floating in electric blue water. While many of the Cyclades—like Andros, Milos, and Paros—are must-visits, a trip to the most popular islands of Santorini and Mykonos is a failsafe for first-timers to the region. Both feature international airports and are easily accessible via regular ferries. 

Despite their popularity, the two islands are not lacking in charm. Whether taking in the stunning sunsets on the cliffs of Santorini’s Caldera or getting lost in the main town of Mykonos after a late night at one of the island’s many beach clubs, a trip to the Cyclades can be as laid-back or high-energy as you make it.

Here, get an insider’s guide on where to stay, where to eat, and what to do on Santorini and Mykonos.

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Katikies Santorini.

Mykonos

The island of Mykonos is known for its 16th-century windmills, seaside tavernas, and dusk-to-dawn parties. While many travel to Mykonos for its notorious nightlife, the island’s turquoise water, charming ports, and winding villages offer plenty to do. 

Stay

While the island has no shortage of boutique hotels, Katikies Mykonos is among the best. A whitewashed luxury escape overlooking the popular Agios Ioannis beach, the hotel’s 32 suites open up to private balconies, many of which include their own jacuzzis or plunge pools. Tiered, open decks allow you to take full advantage of the Aegean Sea views, and two expansive pool areas offer plenty of opportunities to soak up some sun.

For a more private experience, Katikies Villas Mykonos offers one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas near Elia beach, about 25 minutes from Mykonos town and accessible via the property’s private transfer service—though ATV and scooter rentals are also popular on the island. Ideal for families, larger groups, or those looking for a romantic getaway, each villa is equipped with residential luxuries like full kitchens, pools, and outdoor terraces. Regular shuttles between the two properties allows villa guests to take full advantage of Katikies Mykonos’ infinity pool, visit the spa, or sample the hotel’s Greek-Japanese fusion menu. 

The pool at Katikies Mykonos.

Eat

There’s a reason Kiki’s Taverna has a cult following. Tucked away on the north side of the island, the al fresco restaurant, which has no sign, no electricity, and no phone, is well worth the wait (and you will wait—though most likely with a complimentary glass of wine in hand). Once seated, take in the stunning ocean views while tucking into traditional Greek island fare like grilled octopus, marinated anchovies, and vibrant salads.

On the beautiful beach of Paraga sits Tasos Taverna, one of the oldest restaurants in Mykonos. Perfect for a long, lazy afternoon meal after a morning spent soaking up the sun (or sleeping in), the taverna’s casual atmosphere and simple dishes may be just what the doctor ordered.

When you’re in the mood to see and be seen, head to Interni. Nestled in the middle of the island’s main town, the courtyard restaurant offers a seasonal Mediterranean menu, and turns into a pulsing party scene after sunset.

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Do

Speaking of party scenes, there is no better people watching than at one of Mykonos’ many beach clubs. Namely, Scorpios. Laid back and bohemian while still remaining luxurious, Scorpios has made a name for itself as a destination for the island’s well-heeled travelers. Whether you reserve a cabana for the day, come for a sunset drink, or catch an after-dark DJ set, one thing’s for sure: you won’t be bored.

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Scorpios Mykonos. Photo by Robert Rieger.

Don’t leave Mykonos without spending a morning wandering the streets of the main town (aka Chora). The traditional Cycladic village seems lifted from a postcard, with whitewashed cubic homes, wooden windows and doors painted a bright cerulean, and sweeping bougainvillea hanging over doorways. Of course, there is the shopping as well, with designer boutiques like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci, and more popping up every high season. Plenty of smaller shops also populate the town’s winding streets, where you can score linen shirts and dresses, locally-made leather sandals, and handcrafted jewelry.

Santorini

The island of Santorini is as picturesque as they come. Stark white buildings dotted with blue-domed churches are built into the rim of the Caldera, perched high above the sea and offering stunning views of the bay. After an earthquake in the 1950s severely damaged Santorini’s infrastructure, island officials turned their focus toward tourism while rebuilding. The small island became a destination for the stylish jet set, and has only grown more popular since, now attracting around 2 million visitors per year.

Compared to its lively neighbor, the vibe of Santorini is a bit more relaxed and romantic. But, as explained to me by a guide during a recent trip: “It’s the same visitors, they just switch personalities.”

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Katikies Santorini.

Stay

When fantasizing about a trip to the Cyclades, Katikies Santorini is exactly what dreams are made of. The island’s grand dame, located in Oia, offers easy access to the best of Santorini while still maintaining a boutique feel. Carved into the cliffs of the Caldera, the hotel’s 31 suites are whimsically stacked and connected by bridges, stairs, and walks, punctuated by two infinity pools with volcano views. Next door, private villas are ideal for families and couples, with all the conveniences of the main property.

For truly stunning sunset views without the crowds, head to Chromata. Located on the highest point of Imerovigli Village—also known as the “Balcony of the Aegean”—the hotel boasts 22 chic, cave-like rooms, most of which include their own private pools. A bit further south, in the bustling Fira, Katikies Garden is the ultimate refuge. History buffs can lose themselves exploring the hotel grounds, which occupy a former Catholic monastery, while leisure travelers can take in the 180-degree view from the glamorous rooftop pool, cocktail in hand.

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The courtyard at Katikies Garden.

Eat

The idyllic port of Amoudi Bay is a must-visit. Situated just below Oia and only accessible via a steep set of stone steps, a row of tavernas await at the end of the short hike. Each is just as good as the last, though we’re partial to Amoudi Fish Tavern. Grab an oceanfront table and sample crispy anchovies, the island’s famous fava beans, and taramosalata, a meze made from salted cured fish roe. If you’re too full to make the hike back up, hitch a ride on the back of a donkey for a truly authentic Greek island experience.

While casual meals are a staple of island living, that doesn’t mean you need to abandon all fine-dining experiences. Last year, Katikies Santorini introduced an outpost of Botrini’s, the Michelin-starred Athens restaurant helmed by chef Ettore Botrini. Choose the tasting menu, dubbed peripatos (meaning a leisurely stroll in Greek), for 14 courses inspired by the chef’s homelands of Tuscany and Corfu, each expertly prepared with fresh, local ingredients.

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Tavernas along Amoudi Bay.

Do

You’re in the Greek islands for the ocean, and there’s no better way to take full advantage than a private yacht tour. Guests staying at any Katikies property have access to Katikies Club’s fleet of fully-staffed motor yachts, which accommodate four to eight passengers and include a delicious Mediterranean lunch onboard. Spend the day sailing around Santorini while sunbathing on the deck, sipping the island’s famous wines, and diving into the crystal-clear Aegean sea.

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For the ultimate spa day after a dip in the ocean, head to Kirini, Santorini’s premiere destination spa hotel at the edge of Oia village. Each spa suite is dimly-lit and spacious, with twin massage beds, a steam room, and shower. The hot stone massage is a must—careful, you may find yourself falling asleep. 

Don’t leave the island without tasting some of Santorini’s famous wines. Vineyards are everywhere on the island, though they are easy to miss if you don’t know what to look for. Due to the intense sunlight and strong winds, grape producers had to get creative, and trained vines to wrap around themselves, remaining low to the ground and forming a protective “basket” around the fragile grapes. For an introduction to the world of Santorini wines, experience a tasting in the Selene Wine Caves at Katikies Garden, curated by Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis. When the hotel was still a monastery in the 19th century, the monks producing the wine were, at the time, the only supplier to the Vatican. Today, the hotel’s courtyard is home to the award-winning Selene restaurant, which received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2022.

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The Selene wine caves.

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