Between Vietnam and Cambodia: Zen at Zannier
The young French hotel group Zannier is taking a position in South-East Asia. Its two 5-stars offer charm and fusion with their environment. Zannier Bai San Hô is located on the beach in the north of Nha Trang (Vietnam). The doors of Zannier Phum Baitang open a stone's throw from the temples of Angkor (Cambodia).
Roger Zannier, almost 80 years old, guards the vista. Arnaud, the son, holds the helm. Jules, 18 years old, the last offspring of the line, multiplies the internships in the family properties. These gentlemen cultivate a sense of clan, a guarantee of cohesion and happy diversification. It all started in the sixties around a sewing machine placed in an attic in Saint-Chamond (Loire) by an Italian emigrant, not a penny but the rage to succeed. Bingo. Five decades later, inexpensive second-hand clothes for toddlers (Z, Catimini, 3 Pommes, Chipie, Bon Ton, Kickers, etc.) raise the family assets to around 600 million euros. Not bad. Decision is then made to liquidate in order to change era.
Five addresses around the world
Roger Zannier, Swiss resident, opted for the vineyard, an estate in Provence, another in the Douro valley (Portugal). Arnaud chooses the hotel industry. He believes in houses integrated into their local fabric, boosted by 5-star comfort and services. Good idea. This will be the matrix of Zannier Hotels. The group currently has five addresses (Namibia, France, South-East Asia ). As for Jules, he is biding his time.
An estate of around a hundred hectares
In Vietnam , Arnaud fell for a battered estate of around a hundred hectares bordering the China Sea. The 73 villas of Bai San Hô are scattered between steep hills, peaceful rice fields and a divine beach lining a perfect cove. The postcard is embellished with three restaurants: exquisitely fresh fish to savor with your feet in the sand, high-level Vietnamese cuisine and an international menu by the pool. Let’s add top-notch service, Spa, gym, yoga sessions, cooking classes, excursions…
A pure Vietnamese delight
Despite all these possibilities, it is difficult to leave the intimacy of your sumptuous villa with private swimming pool drowned in vegetation . The joy of pleading not guilty when you struggle to escape from this hideout which only has the sky as a witness. The layout adds to it. Vast bedroom, dressing room, bathroom, living room, all in length like a real local house, driftwood and split bamboo, traditional furniture and objects found in neighboring villages... Pleasure guides laziness, time stretches reverie face to the XXL panorama which unfolds its fantasies.
Baguette and soup
Please still step outside at breakfast time, the buffet of which skillfully combines crispy baguette and Vietnamese soup, white ham and vegetarian spring rolls. Also show your curiosity by heading a short distance towards So Xuan Hai, a haunt of accomplished fishermen. Fish, crustaceans trapped in patiently woven bamboo baskets, oysters farmed just a stone's throw from the shore. Here, give in to the colours, encounters and flavours of a world that remains sheltered from emergencies and social networks.
Excursions to review
Perfection is not Vietnamese either, the Zannier Bai San Hô suffers from the impossibility of moving on foot on an area as vast as it is steep. A buggy is essential for every outing, beach or restaurant. Yes, they arrive quickly.
Return to the terrace one day before departure. In the distance, a few barcasses are jamming while seabirds tear the copper and gold sky. A buggy leaves two colourful cocktails, chin!, goodwill of the house. Daydreams dance with the shadows of twilight, letting go imposes its abandonments. What if it was happiness?
Cape Cambodia
So, suddenly, double the stake! To the charms of Vietnam , add the divine stopover of Zannier Phum Baitang (Cambodia) . Its 45 wooden houses with terraces are scattered over 8 hectares of active rice fields. Good idea, we will bring back a few packets of the in-house production. Here, it’s time for zen. Blessed be the incredible brilliance of the Khmer smile, the delicacy of the faces and the offerings, the delicacy of the sculptures and weavings, respect for the serenity of these little people ravaged by a fratricidal war between 1975 and 1979 (2 million deaths) which since then, has campaigned for oblivion rather than revenge. The wound remains raw but faith (95% of the 17 million inhabitants are Buddhist) and resilience say that the ephemerality of this world merits the glories of the beyond. The Angkor site, 15 minutes by tuk-tuk from the hotel. Mandatory, essential, essential visit.
Reveal the Truth
This dizzying sanctuary was built on 163 hectares by His Majesty Suryavarman II at the beginning of the 12th century. What remains is an ocean of polished gray sandstone, hiding thousands of temples, galleries, pillars, sanctuaries, pools, nooks, altars..., all sculpted and engraved with meticulousness to tell the story of time, its legends, its secrets, to reveal the Truth. May the stone become dust, but may the light never fade.
Some researchers dedicate their lives to Angkor, that is to say. Give in at least one or two days of wonder and a few selfies to communicate the depth of feeling in front of a work that goes beyond everything, human, reason, sky.
A carpet of rice fields
The Zannier Phum Baitang table will be a happy comfort at a time when divine wisdom validates the delights of the meal. The house's cuisine flirts with the macaron. Its two restaurants float on a carpet of rice fields, dozens of rectangles bordered by earthen walls, each its own green, from light jade to deep emerald depending on the proximity of the harvest. As for the wooden houses, they illustrate the Zannier mantra of local architecture embellished by everyday objects, bowls, woven vases, tools, hats, sculptures... Warm and superb.
In front of the terrace of a villa, a frangipani sows its white flowers edged with pink, an old-fashioned cart strikes a pose, a bouquet of palm trees climbs towards the sky, a young waitress rushes towards her work, white tunic, impeccable bun, small step press. She smiles. We find ourselves praising the beauties of life. For Zannier Hotels, it’s mission accomplished.
Go . Vietnam Airlines operates a direct daily flight between Paris and Hanoi. The company also connects Paris directly with Ho Chi Minh City four times a week. A partner of Air France (Skyteam), it provides the train + flight formula from around twenty French cities. Then connecting flight to Phù Cat. Allow around fifteen hours of travel and around 1,500 euros per return in economy class, 5,000 euros in business class.
For a comparable price, the company also serves Siem Reap/Angkor from Paris, via Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.
Add around a hundred euros per car for the transfer between airport and hotel in Vietnam (90 minutes) and around twenty euros (20 minutes) in Cambodia.
A valid passport is needed to enter Vietnam. A visa is required to stay in Cambodia. It costs 60 euros.
At Zannier Bai San Hô (Vietnam) as at Zannier Phum Baitang (Cambodia), from 400 euros per night in a double villa, breakfast included.
