Kojic Acid: The Cosmetic Industry’s New Star Ingredient
This new ingredient is valued for its lightening properties and skin benefits.
Derived from the fermentation of rice, soybeans or certain varieties of mushrooms, kojic acid is a natural active ingredient used mainly for its anti-blemish effects, but it also has antioxidant and anti-aging . Origin, application, benefits for the skin, and precautions to take when using it: L'Officiel has listed everything you need to know about this ingredient whose name you must remember.
Origin and discovery of kojic acid
Kojic acid was discovered in Japan at the beginning of the 20th century, during the rice fermentation for the production of sake. Researchers observed that this acid had the ability to inhibit the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour. Today, it is extracted from several types of fungi , including Aspergillus and Penicillium species, or synthesized by fermenting rice or soybeans.
Mechanism of action of kojic acid
Kojic acid works by blocking the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme crucial in the formation of melanin. By limiting the action of this enzyme, kojic acid reduces the production of melanin, which helps to reduce dark spots caused by the sun , aging or acne scars. This is why this ingredient is widely used in treatments for hyperpigmentation and unifying care.
Benefits for the skin
Kojic acid has several benefits that make it a highly prized cosmetic ingredient. Among them, lightening properties , reducing dark spots and discolorations, it helps to even out skin tone and restore radiance to the skin; properties antioxidants which help fight against free radicals, responsible for premature aging of the skin; or even anti-inflammatory effects which can calm redness and skin inflammation. In addition, its antibacterial properties help limit the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.
Uses and products containing kojic acid
Kojic acid is found in various skin care products: serums, creams, lotions, masks, and soaps. Formulations can vary in concentration, but for daily use, products typically contain 1% to 4% kojic acid . For visible results, it is recommended to use these products regularly over several weeks.
Kojic acid can be combined with other ingredients, such as vitamin C, glycolic acid, or niacinamide , to enhance its lightening and antioxidant effects. However, it is important to choose quality products to avoid irritation and to follow the instructions for use.
Precautions and side effects
Although kojic acid Although it is considered safe at low concentrations, it can sometimes cause skin irritation, especially on sensitive skin. It is recommended to do a tolerance test by applying a small amount of product to a discreet area of the skin before using it on the face.
Kojic acid can make skin more sensitive to UV rays, hence the importance of applying a minimum SPF 30 sunscreen when using it. Due to this photosensitivity, it is often recommended to use it rather in the evening.
