Peter Do Carves a New Vision of Helmut Lang for Autumn/Winter 2024

In his second runway collection for the label, Peter Do returned to the utilitarian, minimalist style that had Helmut Lang on every New Yorker's mind in the '90s. Opting for an ultra-sleek, subversive take on basic looks, Do presented a line on the Helmut Lang Autumn/Winter 2024 runway that was at once fresh and modern, and yet simultaneously anchored itself in the brand's legacy as a cult-classic NYC-chic label, expanding Helmut Lang's aesthetic in his own vision.

Early in the show, supermodel Irina Shayk marched down the runway clad in a traffic-cone orange knit top, archive-inspired, bubble wrap-textured tangerine trousers, and a dark, sultry smoky-eye look. The collection, titled "Protection vs. Projection" represents the complexities of the Helmut Lang ethos and Do's attempt to reconcile them, a task under construction in looks like Shayk's, with archival styles and Do's quintessential design mode in clear conversation.

Models strode down the runway in slinky black dresses cut with flowing asymmetric hems, structured suit jackets, and oversized hooded parkas. In classic Helmut Lang fashion, Do presented looks emphasizing a clean, sharply-cut wearable style. Aiming to deliver classically chic New York style to the masses, versatility and approachability are priorities in Do's new era for the label. In an era rife with overconsumption and microtrends, a phenomenon which designers of the modern era are responding to with lines that exude the air of quiet luxury and emphasize wearability, and Do is no different. A minimalistic approach, timeless silhouettes, and sharp tailoring are the vehicles through which Do offers his vision of Helmut Lang, taking the physical form of masterfully cut women's suits, slim-silhouetted sleek leather jackets, and dynamic figure-hugging draped dresses. 

Through cutout and cautious turtleneck tops, hoods and balaclavas, and structured wools and leathers against sheer gauzy fabrics, Do toyed with the essence behind the show, the question of protection versus projection. "The way we affect the world is the way we carve our silhouettes and constrict ourselves with seams and unzip the spaces we need," read the show notes.

Rather than merely repeating what made Helmut Lang a hallmark of '90s New York City fashion, Do opts to breathe a subtle, contemporary essence into the framework of the label's style. A fringed tartan scarf skirt, all-black ensembles finished with fish scale-esque cutout detailing, and layered, geometrically-shaped blazers demonstrate the kind of precision and energy with which Do approaches the pursuit of a new, modern minimalism for Helmut Lang.