Fashion

Jacquemus reinvents Couture with an architectural and solar collection

For his return to Paris Fashion Week, Simon Porte Jacquemus unveils an intimate and architectural collection, combining glamour and sculptural volumes.

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For his big return to Paris Fashion Week, Simon Porte Jacquemus made a big impact by choosing a setting that was as intimate as it was iconic: the former apartment of architect Auguste Perret, located in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. This place, a symbol of modern architecture, lent itself perfectly to the unique world of Jacquemus, who wanted to offer a show that was both confidential and daring. On his Instagram account, the designer revealed: "With this collection, I want to bare myself in front of you, without artifice, just our silhouettes in the intimacy of Auguste Perret's apartment." This statement echoed a minimalist staging where the beauty of lines and proportions took center stage. Each guest, around forty hand-picked people, was invited to take a seat in this elegant space, where notes of intent placed on their seats announced the tone of the show. Two sessions were planned, at 2pm and 3pm, with a fan zone set up outside to satisfy the large crowd, who did not hesitate to brave the bad weather to applaud the designer. Among the distinguished guests were Pamela Anderson , Audrey Tautou, Tiakola, François Civil, Carla Bruni , and many others, who came to salute the talent of Jacquemus .

In this intimate setting, the slow and magnetic gait of the models, accompanied by a romantic soundtrack, evoked the Couture shows of the 40s and 50s. But beyond the delicate atmosphere, it was the collection itself that struck the minds with its sophistication and refinement, a true homage to the great hours of fashion. Jacquemus thus revealed himself not only as a stylist, but as a true architect of clothing, thinking of each piece as a living sculpture. The geometric lines and reworked volumes created architectural and statuesque silhouettes, while respecting the solar and poetic aesthetic of the House . The brand's iconic colors, such as red, stripes and polka dots, were omnipresent, anchoring each outfit in the luminous and Mediterranean universe of Jacquemus .

The silhouettes, both glamorous and sculptural, redefined the contours of the human body with perfect subtlety. The cuts, round and fluid, were expressed through balloon sleeves, half-sphere pants and ball-shaped jackets. The waists were elegantly marked, sometimes high, sometimes low, to accentuate the volumes and originality of the pieces. The skirts, very flared like ball gowns, brought a touch of majesty, while some dresses, playing with transparency or fluid cuts, hinted at the models' bodies. Among the muses who embodied this sublime vision of fashion, we found icons such as Eva Herzigova, Christy Turlington, Adriana Lima and Irina Shayk.

Jacquemus did not fail to combine comfort and luxury, with light feather coats that seemed to float around the models' bodies. But what really marked the collection was the perfect balance between soft cuts and sharper structures. The square tops, in contrast to the fluidity of the skirts and dresses, underlined the collection's guiding principle: architecturality. And finally, the highlight of the show was undoubtedly the appearance of spectacular evening dresses, dressed in a mass of precious fabrics on the back, as well as Couture creations of rare elegance, which crowned this show in beauty.

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JACQUEMUS – “THE CRUISE” SHOW

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