The (in)human condition according to Rick Owens at PFW

"The proportions of the collection are grotesque and inhumane, in a screaming reaction to some of the most disappointing human behavior we will witness in our lifetimes. But there is the eternal utopian hope for a better world." Listening to him, we can't tell if Rick Owens is a defeatist or a great idealist. One thing is certain: the designer is worried, and expresses it in his creations for his autumn-winter 2024-25 show . Rick Owens is not the strangeness of silhouettes or shapes, but rather his search for an eternal utopia and a form of light in a clearly absurd and chaotic, disillusioned, time full of wars and greed, with a most authentic ambivalence and artistic sense. As a continuation of his Men's fashion show last January , Rick Owens continues his journey to his hometown, Porterville. At a time when fashion is moving towards product storytelling with the pre-eminence of the merchandising department, insisting on a concept is a call to urgent action. Despite the strangeness and fear that the designer's silhouettes can give us, upon closer inspection, we detect a form of light. This is the image of hope. A ray of sunshine filtering through an absurd, chaotic, disillusioned era, where wars and greed reign. He unveils his sacred creations at home, once again abandoning the Palais de Tokyo, and recalls fashion to its primary function, which comes immediately after that of making a dress: to communicate what we are, where we live and how.