Daniel Roseberry presents the Schiaparelli spring summer 2023 haute couture collection during Paris Fashion Week.

A few hours have passed since the Daniel Roseberry fashion show for Schiaparelli and the web has already turned to criticism. Although it was a collection that aroused amazement and in some cases horror, it is impossible not to categorize it in the history of fashion with the label "the fashion show in which the three animal heads appeared". Positioned on the dresses of Naomi Campbell , Shalom Harlow and Irina Shayk, respectively, the head of a black wolf, the leopard and the lion that symbolized the three beasts of Dante 's Divine Comedy Alighieri, outlined the theme of the fashion show focusing on Inferno , the official title of the collection.
&laquo;This collection is my tribute to doubt. The doubt of creation and the doubt of intention&raquo; explains the creative director Roseberry &laquo;The twin impulses, sometimes contradictory, to please the public and to impress oneself; the ambivalence that is the constant companion of every artist. Reason why with this collection I wanted to move away from the techniques with which I felt comfortable and that I knew, to instead choose that dark wood, where everything is scary but new, where I would let myself be guided to a place I did not know and I understood. In these dresses, nothing is as it seems. In addition to recalling Dante's sense of organization (three looks for each of the nine circles of hell), I was also directly inspired by some of his most compelling images. The leopard, the lion and the she-wolf, representing lust, pride and avarice, find form in spectacular creations of faux taxidermy, built entirely by hand with foam, resin and other artificial materials&raquo;. The memory that is linked to this practice is a memory of a leopard hat worn by the founder Elsa Schiaparelli in his famous portrait. But in addition to the fake taxidermy that is applied to the clothes, there are the classic sparkling garments with triumphs of gold, plays of refractions of light, sequins or sheet metal covered in leather.

As every time, at the Schiaparelli spring summer 2023 haute couture fashion show everyone had high expectations for the new collection because, as Daniel Roseberry says: «Elsa has always reserved surprises in her work and over the years, people have learned to come to Schiaparelli with a spirit of wonder. [...] This season we have focused less on sophisticated artifice, such as our bijoux with hyper-stylized anatomy, but rather on blurring the lines between real and unreal».

«My prayer is to always remind myself, in the most difficult days, when inspiration doesn&#39;t arrive, that no ascension to heaven is possible without a journey into the fire, together with the fear that comes with it. Let me always hug her» concludes Roseberry in the press release. An amazing collection or out of time? You decide how to judge it. But it certainly remains a collection that particularly divides the opinion of the fashion system. But amidst the uncertainties, one thing is certain, inspirations and the exhausting interpretation of a collection can sometimes lead to different results.

GUESTS AT THE SCHIAPARELLI FASHION SHOW Guests of the fashion show Diane Kruger, Marisa Berenson, Rossy De Palma , the Valentina sisters and Chiara Ferragni who recently announced that at <a href="https://www.lofficielitalia.com/pop-culture/chiara-ferragni-sanremo-cosa-indossera-schiaparelli-dior" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the Sanremo Festival she will dress</a> <a href="https://www.lofficielitalia.com/pop-culture/chiara-ferragni-sanremo-cosa-indossera-schiaparelli-dior" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Schiaparelli</a> , Kylie Jenner with a lion head dress presented during the fashion show, Doja Cat in total red, L&#39;Officiel Italia cover boy Jordan Roth , and the Balmain stylist Olivier Rousteing.

Inferno Couture: the fashion show of the 3 Schiaparelli fairs

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