Tory Burch's classic, subversive and sophisticated sportswear

The Tory Burch Autumn/Winter 2025-26 show offered a bold reinterpretation of classic American sportswear , where each piece seemed to have a story, a patina of time that made it unique. True to her “Twisted American Sportswear” approach, the designer played with established codes by transforming basics into unexpected objects of desire. The silhouettes were marked by deconstructed cuts and plays on volumes: banker shirts with flared cuffs, cardigans with slit and twisted sleeves before being pinned to the shoulder, or shirt dresses constructed on a spiral pattern, hugging the body in a new way. The materials contributed to this reinvention by blurring perceptions: a crumpled velvet crossed with metallic threads, a frayed tweed, brushed alpaca or even a faux fleece in perforated wool. Even the most familiar pieces, like sweats and sweatpants, were reimagined in luxurious Japanese jersey. Accessories, meanwhile, struck a balance between softness and structure: irresistibly supple bags were crafted in leathers usually reserved for footwear, while the iconic Eleanor Bag was deconstructed in plush quilted leather. On the feet, footwear defied convention with exaggerated proportions, from riding boots and monk shoes with ultra-pointed toes to slingback sandals that revisited the Twisted Pump. Jewelry, a 70s sparkle punctuated the collection with shoulder-length chains, watch-inspired bracelets and gold-toned glasses. Crystal brooches and oversized pins accentuated the sculptural look of the silhouettes. Presented at the Museum of Modern Art, the show was set to a hypnotic soundtrack, mixing the avant-garde rhythms of Charlotte Adigéry and Bolis Pupul, the experimental electro of Throbbing Gristle and the disco glamour of Donna Summer. A collection at once nostalgic and resolutely contemporary, where classicism was rethought through a subversive and refined prism.