Proenza Schouler Legacy, between bags and cult collabs: why its designers will lead Loewe
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the creative duo behind Proenza Schouler, have left a profound mark on contemporary fashion. After more than two decades of pioneering work, they are saying goodbye to the house they made synonymous with experimental design, fine craftsmanship and modern American luxury. From the iconic PS1 bag to influential runway shows and signature collaborations, the brand’s history is worth celebrating. As they prepare to write a new chapter at the helm of Loewe, the legacy of Proenza Schouler remains a living testament to their cultural and creative impact.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez , the minds and souls of Proenza Schouler , will lead Spanish house Loewe . After announcing their departures in January, the move is a key piece in a major creative director shakeup within the luxury universe. The LVMH group orchestrated the transition following the departure of Jonathan Anderson , who transformed Loewe into a $1.5 billion behemoth . McCollough and Hernandez are believed to have been chosen to build on Anderson’s successes, particularly in leather goods and accessories, while introducing a more pared-back, minimalist aesthetic to ready-to-wear . While the Loewe venture promises to be a fresh start, it’s essential to look back at Proenza Schouler’s history to fully understand the designers’ vision.
Proenza Schouler was born in 2002 as a graduate project at Parsons School of Design in New York. The brand's name is a tribute to the maiden names of the mothers of the two founders.
Before starting the brand, McCollough and Hernandez had interned at Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors . Those experiences led them to join forces, united by a desire to rediscover and celebrate authentic craftsmanship in fashion. Their debut was an instant success: their entire graduate collection was purchased by Julie Gilhart, then the fashion director of Barneys . In 2005, Douglas Keeve’s documentary Seamless put the duo in the spotlight, chronicling their win at the first CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2004. Since then, numerous CFDA awards and accolades have cemented the brand’s reputation as a symbol of sharp, structured design, deeply rooted in the urban language of New York.
Proenza Schouler's greatest commercial success came in 2008 with the PS1: a briefcase-style bag that combined functionality and elegance, quickly becoming an icon.
Made in various materials, colours and sizes, it has been worn by names such as Khloé Kardashian , Emma Roberts, Reese Witherspoon and Jessica Alba , ensuring the brand a constant source of income. In 2010, the duo dared with tie-dye, bringing psychedelic prints paired with tailored cuts and fine fabrics to the runway. A bold choice that anticipates the return of that trend in the following years.
The Spring 2016 show explores the relationship between body and movement: fringes, asymmetrical cuts, fluid silhouettes. Sensuality becomes a statement, and each piece is a tribute to individuality. In 2022, the brand moves towards a more sculptural aesthetic: structured knitwear, pronounced shoulders, pleats and graphic lines. An evolution that confirms the stylistic maturity of the two creatives.
McCollough and Hernandez's vision has also been expressed through collaborations with a strong cultural impact.
With J Brand, they launched a hand-painted denim capsule, which immediately sold out. In 2014, with MAC Cosmetics , they introduced the famous “Sunset Beach” and “Ocean City” blushes, inspired by the colors of the North American coast. In 2018, with Lancôme , they signed the “Chroma Collection”, while in 2021 they collaborated with Mercedes-Benz for a campaign with Laura Dern dedicated to the launch of the electric EQS. In the footwear sector, they revisited Birkenstock classics with couture details, reinterpreted Vans silhouettes with precious materials, and designed two exclusive models for Sorel that blend outdoor and runway fashion. With their exit, the future of the brand's collaborations remains uncertain.
Highlights in Proenza Schouler History
In 2012, the brand expanded its offerings to include accessories and footwear. The PS11 , a structured and elegant bag, was born, followed by a series of shoes with a sculptural design. This expansion strengthened the brand's experimental approach and broadened its audience.
In 2023, the 20th anniversary show is a tribute to the duo’s female muses. On the runway, Chloë Sevigny opens the show. Quotes from author Ottessa Moshfegh, read by Sevigny herself on a soundtrack curated by Arca, convey the deep and poetic vision of McCollough and Hernandez. Celebrities such as Cate Blanchett, Dakota Fanning, Jennifer Lawrence and Miley Cyrus have worn Proenza Schouler on the most prestigious red carpets, while photographers such as Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz and Tim Walker have immortalized their pieces in iconic editorials.
