Romantic Fashion: Origins And History
Recent fashions have taken a distinctly romantic turn, from Prada’s gauzy dresses to Simone Rocha’s floral gowns covered in bows. Let’s dive deep into this trend to find its origins and influences.
In contrast to the sleek, minimalist corporate aesthetic that has been popping up, there has recently also been a rise in flowy, romantic styles. Ruffles and lace, sheer gossamer fabrics and flowy silhouettes - these styles echo fashions of bygone eras. Come with us to discover the inspiration that fuels this emerging trend.
Going way back to the mid-nineteenth century, we can encounter an unmistakably romantic spirit in the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, which included artists such as Dante Gabriel Rossetti and William Holman Hunt. This artistic collective emerged in opposition to the Industrial Revolution, aiming instead to connect with nature and individual craftsmanship. They showed nostalgia for the mediaeval ages, depicting romantic scenes with knights and damsels. The subjects were Botticelli-esque waifs based on models such as Elisabeth Siddal and Fanny Cornforth. They often wore flowers, ribbons or headdresses in their long, flowing hair. The garments chosen were flowy, silky fabrics in earthy tones that contrasted stiff, corseted Victorian fashions. The intricate embroidery on the dresses reflected the emphasis placed on handcraft by the Pre-Raphaelites.
Let’s jump into the next century, specifically the 1970s when the hippy movement was blossoming. After several wars, the conservative 1950s and the eminence of mass-produced mainstream culture, the youth sought escapism and turned to the romance of the Pre-Raphaellite aesthetics. People were drawn to the allure of nature and artisanal or DIY crafts and sought the freedom to express their individuality, gender identity and sexuality. The resulting styles were colourful fabrics treated with tie-dye and batik techniques, flowy maxi dresses, bell bottoms, peasant blouses, and androgynous styles. Details such as fringe, beads and embroidery were very prevalent during this period.
These romantic styles are emerging once more in the context of contemporaneity. With the rejection of mass production and a focus on sustainability and slow fashion, people are seeking to reconnect with nature similarly to the Pre-Raphaellites and hippies. Natural fabrics are used more often, up-cycling old garments emphasises DIY and individual craftsmanship, and there is an increasing interest in second-hand fashion. The turn to romanticism also reflects a certain nostalgia and escapism from the overwhelming and harsh modern world, while also seeking a sense of community.
Everyone has a different take on this trend. Some designers like Chopona Lowena, David Koma or Molly Goddard use it to subvert notions of gender or sexuality, pairing romantic gowns with edgy accessories or loud colours. Others create an ethereal and naturalistic fairytale of utopia, such as Susan Fang’s frilly designs or Gabriela Hearst’s use of translucent, ruffly fabrics at Chloe S/S 2024. One thing is sure: fashion is cyclical, and it is a fascinating thing to see how the ghosts of fashion past are updated in a modern context.
