Art

Hip-hop, the phenomenon born in the Bronx that has conquered the world

Two New York museums celebrate 50 years of what is not only a musical genre but also an aesthetic universe, from its beginnings in the popular (and infamous) neighborhood north of the Big Apple to becoming a global phenomenon.

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By JANELLE SESSOMS

Before becoming a worldwide phenomenon, Hip Hop was the lifestyle of a local community of people who had created their own forms of self-expression. Going back to the Bronx in 1973, Hip Hop owes itself to the innovative vision of young black and brown people who created art inspired by their lifestyle. The essence of Hip Hop lies in emphasizing individuality with boldness and perhaps this is why the genre has immediately meshed with the world of fashion. It is through that lens that a community historically excluded from mainstream platforms has come to define its own rules and social norms, giving life to a new form of self-expression through fashion. 50 years after its appearance, 'Hip hop is as revolutionary as it was then.

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From top: Blondie and friend, 1981 (Photo by Charlie Ahearn); Ice-T, Darlene Ortiz and Evil E, Los Angeles, 1987 (Photo by Glen Friedman)

Through April 23, "Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style" is on view at the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology , the museum's first exhibit to explore fashion through a specific musical genre. Curators Elena Romero and Elizabeth Way have selected over one hundred garments and accessories, including pieces from Dapper Dan , Tommy Hilfiger , Fubu , Baby Phat , Louis Vuitton , April Walker , Cross Colors , Karl Kani , 5001 Flavors and Pelle Pelle , along with pieces made iconic by past and present celebrities like Aaliyah 's bandeau top and baggy jeans; LL Cool J 's bucket hat; Roberto Cavalli 's 2003 embroidered denim jacket and skirt for Lil Kim ; Run DMC 's Adidas shell toe; the vintage Thierry Mugler dress worn by Cardi B at the 2019 Grammys ; and the custom made bustier by MCM for Beyoncé .

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Clockwise from top: Wyclef Jean and Lauryn Hill, NY 1993 (Photo by Lisa Leone); Mary J. Blige, New York City, 1991, (Photo by Lisa Leone); an image from the book "Style, Lower East Side", New York, 2002, by Jamel Shabazz (Courtesy The Museum at FIT)

The exhibition chronicles the evolution of the relationship between Hip Hop and fashion, considering a range of topics: the significance of Dapper Dan's unprecedented styling; the encounter with the highest fashion and collaborations with different designers; Hip hop artists who have created their own fashion lines; and the impact on the red carpets.

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Counter-clockwise from top: two images from the book "Style, Lower East Side", New York, 2002, by Jamel Shabazz (Courtesy The Museum at FIT); Tupac (Photo by Shawn Mortensen)

But to pay homage to the fiftieth anniversary of Hip hop there is also The Museum of Photography - Fotografiska New York , with the exhibition "Hip-Hop: Conscious, Unconscious" , open until 20 May. It's a more intimate approach that captures the evolution of Hip Hop from its inception to the turning point where it became an industry in its own right. Thanks to more than two hundred photographers, the exhibition reopens the curtain on the first moments full of meanings that helped define the genre as we know it today. Themes such as "the four elements" (rap, DJ, break dance and graffiti), the role of women in Hip Hop and the social, economic and cultural zeitgeist of the Bronx between the 70s and 80s are explored .

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Clockwise from top: an image from the book "Style, Lower East Side", New York, 2002, by Jamel Shabazz (Courtesy The Museum at FIT); Notorius B.I.G. #01 (Photo Geoffroy De Boismenu); Mac Miller n.25, cover of the album "Self Care" (Photo by Christian Weber)

And each photograph explains an important part of the story, from reportage on the streets of New York, to images of the first block parties, to promotional artwork from sophisticated productions, to contemporary experimental portraits that reflect the evolution of the industry's focus . While 'Hip Hop remains a global powerhouse touching on virtually all aspects of pop culture, these two exhibitions offer new generations a holistic understanding of the pioneers who made this behemoth possible. And they show how emerging creatives pick up and carry on that important legacy.

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Clockwise from top: the exhibition "Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style", installation view. Exhibition design by Courtney Sloane Design © The Museum at FIT; Kendrick Lamar (Photo by Chis Buck); Nicki Minaj photographed for Vibe magazine, New York 2008 (Photo by Angela Boatwright)

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