Feng J: When jewellery meets the world of ballet
A young prodigy in the art jewelry sector, Feng J reinvents the codes of jewellery with a very special poetry.
Sensitive to the arts and grace, Feng J creates creations that crystallize his dreamlike and delicate universe. It is through art jewellery that the young Chinese designer expresses herself and touches her audience. Her imagination and know-how are such that she is today the most prominent jewellery designer in mainland China around the world — but also the youngest jeweller to have a piece of jewellery, the " Ginkgo Leaf " brooch, having enters the permanent collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris .
More than just an essential reference in her community, the talented young woman is also a philanthropist who likes to support the causes that are close to her heart. Thus, in January 2023, Feng J donated his artwork " White Heart " in an exceptional sale for "Auction for auction, Bid for creation!" — at the initiative of the Paris Opera and AROP ( Association pour le Rayonnement de l'Opéra national de Paris ), in collaboration with Sotheby's Paris —, for the benefit of the creation and sharing of art with all . From this sale, a link was woven, an obvious one, between her and the Paris Opera.
"For me, the Palais Garnier is a spiritual monument because I have an artistic activity. Through this donation, I want to show that there is a link between the creation of a ballet and the creation of jewelry: it is a tribute to humanity"
— Feng J.
Video directed by James Bort
From this introduction with the Paris Opera, the jewellery designer met the famous director James Bort, famous for having carried out campaigns with prestigious luxury brands – including Hermès, Piaget, Balmain and Louis Vuitton . As luck would have it, Mr. Bort 's wife is none other than Étoile Dorothée Gilbert , whose fame is well established. Everything seemed to fit together and it became clear: it was important to create a highly artistic project, created around various universes with common values. First, the cinematographic eye of Monsieur Bort, then the beauty of the gesture and the dance. Finally, the exquisite workmanship of Feng J.
"An art piece of jewellery is another form of expression of the spirituality of humanity, as does ballet"
— Feng J.
The result is a campaign that inspires and invites you to appreciate the beauty of a movement, a place, an energy, a gem, a creation. Under the name " When Jewelry meets Ballet ", this short film explores Feng J 's dream day at the Palais Garnier. Where she draw the essence of her emotions, then transcribes it with a manifest piece: a jewel in majesty.
To bring this high-flying campaign to life, four elite dancers from the Paris Opera — the young Étoile dancer Guillaume Diop, Bleuenn Battistoni, Mickaël Lafon and Adèle Belem — caught the attention of Feng J. Their presence, cultural and gender diversity echo the designer and the message she wishes to convey: that art transcends everything - from age to identity, from the place of origin to appearance or to education. If there is one thing that art — film, dance, jewellery — is capable of doing, it is to create an emotion regardless of many criteria.
From his reflection on his connection with dance, Feng J created two emblematic pieces: "Blooming Dragonfly Diva" and "A dragonfly wearing Moonlight". The dragonfly here becomes an allegory of the dancer : just as elegant, delicate and ethereal. To transcribe the common – almost imperceptible – gesture of the insect as of the dancer, the Chinese designer uses pointed and daring techniques: the "Floating Set" and the "Standing Mounting". The latter allows gems to be mounted vertically and at different angles, in order to open a new window to expand the possibilities of mounting jewellery, both from an aesthetic and artisanal point of view. An unconventional approach to jewellery, this method breaks free from other more conservative and usual techniques. Once again, Feng J pushes his thought to the limit that creativity is synonymous with all possibilities, just as ballet is a salvation for humanity.
The designer's interview
L'OFFICIEL: What was your creative journey?
Feng J: I was born into a family of artists, my great-grandfather was a court painter in the late Qing Dynasty. So I started painting as a child, then studied furniture design at the China Academy of Art before going to the University of Arts in London to get my Master of Arts degree. I also studied crafts at BJOP Paris, now called Haute Ecole de Joaillerie.
LO: Can you tell us how this collaboration with the Opéra Garnier came about?
FJ: The origin of this collaboration goes back to the auction for the Paris Opera organized by Sotheby's Paris. I donated a "Coeur Blanc" jewel to support the fundraising event for "Auction for action, Bid for creation!" and successfully sold it. It was so exciting and meaningful.
LO: What connection do you have with dance ?
FJ: Unfortunately, I don't dance myself, but I like to watch ballet performances and I am inspired by them.
LO: How do dance and jewellery dialogue in harmony?
FJ: I think it's about the art of expressing, of expressing body language, of expressing the energy of the spirit, of expressing elegance and grace.
LO: Can you explain the choice of your ambassadors for this campaign? How do they make a difference and are they a source of inspiration?
FJ: Guillaume Diop, Bleuenn Battistoni, Mickaël Lafon and Adèle Belem are all top talents! They inspired me a lot to create art jewellery!
LO: Why did you choose to work in jewellery?
FJ: In my nature, I like to be creative and create beautiful things, so I guess jewellery is one of those mediums that I chose... I also wanted to be a sports car designer when I I was 20, so you don't think it's destiny? It's just life!
LO: What were your inspirations for these two collections? What do they represent to you?
FJ: These two collections, "Blooming Dragonfly Diva" and "A dragonfly wearing Moonlight", are about the dragonfly motif. In my mind, the dragonfly is a born dancer, the curved trajectory of its flight, the elegant gesture it shows, so beautiful and yet effortless. And the ballet dance is quite related to its performance. Poetic, ethereal and effortlessly elegant!
LO: What were the challenges in creating this collection?
FJ: I have to take into account both the shape and the colour of the object, which forced me to think very carefully about the prediction. Because I don't use wax carving to make metal jewellery, it's like a puzzle game and it's extremely experimental for every creative journey.
LO: The DNA of your collection in 3 words?
FJ: Pictorial, ethereal and fluid.
LO: For you, is jewellery unisex?
FJ: YES! My pieces are works of art and not intended for commercial use, so gender is not the priority. It can be considered a piece of art to wear.
LO: Do you consider yourself avant-garde?
FJ: Yes, both my personality and my works. I even call them disruptive.
LO: What are your plans for the future?
FJ: I have been confirmed to participate in the Biennale de Paris in November 2023, which will take place at the Grand Palais Éphémère. I can't wait to show my new works to the world.
