Jeanne Damas, Muse of the Riviera
Meeting with Jeanne Damas, ambassador of French je ne sais quoi.
From Rouje to the Becoming Karl Lagerfeld series, Jeanne Damas embodies the essence of an authentic and assertive woman. For L'Officiel, the It-Girl and businesswoman spoke to us about her role, her relationship with fashion and her beauty secrets.
L'OFFICIEL: This isn't the first time you've been in front of the camera. What is your relationship with cinema? How would you describe the “Becoming Karl Lagerfeld” series?
JEANNE DAMAS: Cinema is my first love. I went to theater school for 3 years with Blanche Salant, as the classes were in the evening I had a lot of time during the day while my friends were at university; so I took refuge 3 to 4 times a week at the cinema. I think I was very influenced by actresses or films to create the whole universe of my brand Rouje. Almodóvar's heroines, the first films of Klapisch or Desplechin, Agnès Varda and her Cleo. And of course, Adjani. The Becoming Karl Lagerfeld series is very interesting to discover the rise and construction of a man who became a legend. We know the Karl of today but the series tells us about the Karl of before, with his weaknesses and his doubts, it humanizes him in a way. It is also a very inspiring series which places us in the world of fashion from the 70s at the start of ready-to-wear.
L'O: How did you work on the role of Paloma Picasso?
JD: I immersed myself in reading fashion in the 70s, Beautiful People and Kaiser Karl. But it was when I started working on the costume research with Pascaline Chavanne that I really became immersed in the role. I discovered a profession other than stylist. Which is more in a sociological and historical research of clothing, we read the script at the same time as trying on the dresses to see his actions or his states of mind in the scene. It is exciting.
L'O: Just like her, you have also become a sort of muse of contemporary fashion and ambassador of your own brand. What did this role teach you?
JD: I've always worked like that with the clothes I create. Rouje is a brand of women who create for women, and this dimension is quite important to understand the success of the brand. Obviously, it speaks to them more easily. I first create clothes for myself that I want to wear every day, and naturally to promote them for the brand in an authentic way. I really think this is the key to Rouje's success.
L'O: You played alongside major actors such as Daniel Brühl (Karl Lagerfeld), Théodore Pellerin (Jacques de Bascher), Arnaud Valois (Yves Saint Laurent), Alex Lutz (Pierre Bergé) and Sunnyi Melles (Marlène Dietrich ). Tell us about this shoot.
JD: I was very lucky to be surrounded by such a sharp and talented creative team, it gave me a lot of reassurance and support. I knew some actors before filming like Arnaud Valois or Claire Laffut and I made friends with others. There was a very nice team spirit, especially since we did a lot of party and restaurant scenes so we had a lot of fun.
L'O: The series is produced by Disney+ and Gaumont. What does this change compared to a classic production?
JD: It's quite dizzying, there are a lot of people on set and nothing is left to chance. Every minute counts and it's a choreography of professions that all serve the same creative purpose... I find it quite galvanizing. Disney and Gaumont have surrounded themselves with cinema stars like Pascaline Chavanne. And Jérôme Salle was incredibly professional and kind. I liked the fact that Disney did not try to copy and paste real characters, but rather to reinvent and re-appropriate them for a unique and modern result.
L'O: What do the 70s represent for you? Are you nostalgic for the past?
JD: I think we all have a fantasy of this era: the party, all the fashion was invented, the freedom... but it remains a fantasy. I am very comfortable in our times today, as intense as they are.
L'O: Paloma Picasso was passionate about jewellery and even created her own jewellery designs, notably for Tiffany & Co. Do you share this passion for jewellery?
JD: I love antique jewellery. I have a lot of family jewels that I keep preciously, including my father's baptismal chain that I stole from my grandfather and which is my lucky charm. Otherwise, I wear hoop earrings from my sister's brand, Louise Damas, and fine rings every day.
L'O: You are an ambassador for Tiffany & Co., which accompanies you in the campaign for the Becoming Karl Lagerfeld series. Tell us about this collaboration.
JD: This collaboration makes sense since Paloma Picasso is one of their designers. It's a brand that I've always liked, and I've worn pieces from the hardware collection for several years.
L'O: You have your own fashion brand, Rouje. How do you design your collections?
JD: It always starts from a desire, from an inspiration. The starting point is often a woman or a detail that inspired me. Like costumes in a Pina Bausch ballet, a way a woman wears her trench coat in the street, an actress in a film or a series, a photo of my mother in the 90s, or playing a role of 'a fashion icon like Paloma Picasso. Then we talk about it with the style team, we make mood boards, we create a range of colors and we design the prints first. Then comes the research into materials and shapes. Next comes the fittings, often on me because I need to wear them to feel if I like them or not, then the creation of looks with the prototypes. Finally comes the part that I love which is creating a story to bring the clothes to life and put them into images or films.
L'O: You represent the image of the French woman with natural and imposing beauty. Rouje launched her own cosmetics line. What are your daily beauty rituals?
JD: I like makeup that reveals rather than hides. I like to see the little flaws, the skin, I don't like when it's too smooth. At Les Filles en Rouje, makeup is instinctive; it is there to add color and light. I created palettes so you can apply with your fingers and mix colours as you wish. There are no rules to follow and perfection is advocated. My biggest beauty secret comes from my mother: protect yourself from the sun with sunscreen all year round and don't expose yourself to bad weather.
L'O: Have you ever created swimsuit designs? What do you like about swimwear pieces?
JD: Yes, we release a small line of jerseys every year at Rouje. Always with a print that you can't find anywhere else or with a detail that makes the difference. I like to have a piece that makes you unique. I like more and more one-piece swimsuits, which I can keep as a bodysuit during the day by adding a petticoat or jeans.
L'O: The photo shoot for L'Officiel took place at Chateau de Théoule. Do you like this vintage side of the Riviera or are you more of a Yacht Club de Monaco person?
JD: I love this vintage Riviera side which takes you on a journey out of time. And I'm more of a sailboat than a yacht.
L’O: What are your favourite addresses on the Côte d’Azur?
JD: I love the Colombe d’Or, the Roches Rouges, and in Saint-Paul-de-Vence the Chapelle Matisse which is superb!
Photography: Léon Prost
Styling: Myssia Ghosn
Makeup: Sarah Saad
Hairstyle: Marc Orsatelli
Photography Assistant: Virgile Biechy
Artistic Director: Jenny Mannerheim
Styling Assistant: Justine Domejean
Thanks: Jennifer Eymère, Jurgen Lehrer
Series produced at CHÂTEAU DE THÉOULE
@CHATEAUDETHEOULE CHATEAU-DE-THEOULE.COM
More information on the brand
Rouje: rouje.com @rouje
To watch Becoming Karl Lagerfeld www.disneyplus.com