A Conversation with Pharrell Williams: from Paris to Hong Kong to the Far West
Thanks to spectacular shows, from Paris to Hong Kong via his native Virginia, and a modern-pop aesthetic he is rewriting Louis Vuitton menswear. «This is a global luxury brand that travellers identify with. My job is to take the house to different places to tell stories that make our community unique. I want to appreciate the places we visit and that inspire us. It is a story of sharing and love expressed through clothes."
Text by GIAMPIETRO BAUDO and ALESSANDRO VIAPIANA
A global tour. Departed from Paris. Continued to Hong Kong. With a final stop in his native Virginia, recreated at the gates of the Ville Lumière in the gardens of the Fondation Louis Vuitton nestled among the trees of the Bois de Boulogne.
The journey of Pharrell Williams, called to the creative direction of Louis Vuitton menswear, is an aesthetic story that is changing menswear, combining his musical background with the aesthetic one of the flagship maison of the LVMH group, defining a modern-pop universe.
« Louis Vuitton is a global luxury brand with which travellers identify. This is our, my, task: I take the maison to different places to tell stories that make our community unique. Without "stealing" or proposing an undue appropriation of a culture. My intent and that of the team I work with is to make our customers appreciate the places we visit and that inspire us. These places guided us in creating the collection, we would like them to be a source of inspiration for them too. It is a story of sharing and love expressed through clothes", the designer told L'OFFICIEL during the pre-show meetings or backstage at the three events that wrote the first chapters of his creative direction. Pharrell Lanscilo Williams, singer-songwriter, musician, record producer and designer, is a volcano of ideas. Considered one of the most successful contemporary music producers (he won 13 Grammys and was indicated by Billboard as the greatest producer of the decade 2000-2010), he is experiencing a golden moment after having collected the creative legacy of Virgil Abloh and began his journey in the brand founded in 1854.
«Working for Louis Vuitton is a dream come true... I feel lucky for everything I have the opportunity to do in this maison. Considering the moment I'm living in, I feel privileged, lucky every single day of my life."
L'OFFICIEL: Your background is musical but you have always collaborated with fashion. Which of the two worlds is the most difficult?
PHARRELL WILLIAMS: Neither is difficult, I only see the opportunities, the gift and the privilege I have of being able to deal with two universes in which creativity is at the center. Let's say it's an easy job for me, but above all it's a dream. And being able to turn dreams into reality is the best job in the world.
LO: What was the idea behind the first collection presented in Paris with the big show on the Pont Neuf?
PW: Love. And the convenience. For me, another word for comfort is "luxury". It's about the convenience of design and the design of convenience.
LO: The first show was an emotional homage to Paris...
PW: Paris has always been the city where artists are celebrated, where they are fully supported. I would say that given its approach to culture it became a privileged destination for black American artists in the 30s, 40s, 50s... Because they felt considered in another way, protected and valued in their story. In the first show all the different elements worked together to create a chorus of emotions. I wanted something very immersive, the show is not just made of clothes but of air, of sounds, of time, of locations, of moments. With the fashion show I wanted to express my gratitude for the opportunity I was given. I wanted to shout out the respect I have for the position I occupy. I feel full of gratitude.
LO: The Millionaire Speedy bag that you launched in the first show and wear regularly has become a global cult. How did you create it?
PW: When I arrived at Louis Vuitton I understood that there was a need to shake up the house, to project it into the future. And this bag is the essence of this concept. We worked on some cornerstones of the brand: the Speedy bag, the monogram, the colour. But we tried to dismantle certain stereotypes. We kept the shape but experimented with a softer, more delicate material. Which transformed the bag almost into a pet, a small puppy to always carry with you. And then we added the gold chain and experimented with unusual colours like this yellow. In reality there was only one concept: to take this icon to a next level.
LO: The debut on the Pont Neuf in Paris and then the catwalk in Hong Kong on the Avenue of stars on the Victoria dockside. What is the feeling of your aesthetic story?
PW: Paris was the starting point of a greater journey. I'm continuing to live a dream. A dream that comes true every time I watch a sketch of a look, every time we work on an advertising campaign, every time I can collaborate with the people I love, like Rihanna or LeBron James. They are dreams that come true. I think I'm lucky. And then the great platform of Louis Vuitton offers me a global internship to speak to the world. I felt honored to be able to bring my message to Asia through the city of Hong Kong.
LO: Why did you choose Hong Kong for the show-event dedicated to unveiling the pre-fall 2024 collection?
PW: Because this metropolis experienced three and a half years of quarantine due to the pandemic, and now it is ready to be reborn. The cultural strength and affection of the people was incredible. And all the support we have had from the government has also been unique . People and institutions are working hard to restore Hong Kong to an important role globally.
LO: What is your personal memory of Hong Kong?
PW: I have performed here many times as a singer and this city has a unique and incredible energy. The music scene, the art scene, the creative scene linked to fashion and also the culinary scene with food experiences make it unique. It is a city constantly in transformation where you can breathe life. Unstoppable.
LO: What was the spirit of this collection?
PW: I started from the idea of a Hong Kong businessman on holiday in Hawaii. During his holidays he has to make a quick trip for a meeting. He changes, chooses a formal wardrobe. And then he goes back to his moment of relaxation. Throughout the collection I worked on some archetypes, such as that of the sailor. There is also a great focus on dandy aesthetics but above all there are all the visual codes that accompany me and my little obsessions, like pearls for example.
LO: Last stop Paris but looking at Virginia where you were born, to write a story inspired by cowboy America. What was it like covering the Wild West?
PW: It was an honor. Having the opportunity to do something related to the West and the vibes related to it was beautiful. When you see cowboys, you only see a stereotypical version of them. You never really get a chance to understand what the original cowboys were, and still are. They looked like us. They looked like me. And also to Native Americans. And it was great to work with the Lakota tribes of North Dakota, the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe and the Native Voices of Resistance.
LO: What came out of this meeting?
PW: We shared our idea about the collection and music for the show. Music, which in our vision, is a means of expressing love. To tell our story and the story of our people. As well as possible. And I'm happy with the result. By doing it sincerely, an overwhelming feeling emerged. And it was felt. The atmosphere in the location was pure love. It was the intended goal and I thank God that I had the opportunity to complete it.
LO: The common thread of all three of your collections is a look at the world of workwear, culminating in the latest F/W 2024 show.
PW: For me it's crucial and workwear has been critically important to the hip-hop community. Many times life is hard. When you face difficult situations you want something that lasts and resists, so workwear is perfect. The collaboration with Timberland in the latest show, for example, goes precisely in this direction. Whether you work along the suburban streets or in a factory, Timber-lands are shoes that respond to the need to last a long time and be resistant, right? And in a time like this, if you have to spend your money, it has to be on something that really lasts.