Portraits

The interview with Betony Vernon, the new creative director of Pianegonda

After working with various fashion houses and creating bespoke pieces, Betony Vernon takes over the creative direction of Pianegonda. 

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Starting from last January, the creative flair of the Anglo-American artist Betony Vernon joins the heritage of an icon of Italian jewellery from the 90s, Pianegonda . Over the years, many of his works have been exhibited in important international museums, including the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Milan Triennale. Among the main values of this artist is the promotion of general well-being, both physically and mentally, through pleasure, sensuality and harmonization with one's inner self.

Born in Virginia, but subsequently naturalized Italian, Betony grew up in an environment closely linked to the world of art and culture. “My mother was a painter and director of education at the Chrysler Museum in Norfolk. She was a white woman who was an African-American civil rights activist, but I was removed from her perhaps because she was considered unfit to be a mother. I grew up with my father, a pilot and skilled craftsman. I had my first experiences in her workshop, where she has always allowed me to carve wood since I was a child. He always had a lot of faith in me, and no doubt recognized my ability in manual work.'

Thus, between sculptures and jewels, Vernon, after having worked with some of the most famous fashion and design houses all over the world and having created unique creations for many celebrities, today takes over the creative direction of Pianegonda and creates her first collection of jewels. «It all started 25 years ago when I noticed that I have some codes in common with this brand, that bold and brave attitude. At the time, there were only a few of us working in silver, and in Italy it was not yet considered something so noble. Maybe I already knew that I was going to work for this reality, maybe it's the power of intentions, but in the end it all became real. At this stage of my life, I never thought I'd accept the role of creative director, but we must always be careful what we think and say, never say never». A coincidence already written, a phone call arrived after returning to Italy after 14 years living in Paris. In fact, after graduating in art history and goldsmithing, Vernon had already lived her Italian experience, first in Florence and then in Milan, where she obtained a specialization in design at the famous Domus Academy, where she received a futurist education . «I love looking ahead and I believe that to create new things for the future you have to be punk, rebellious and destructive. My key to success is a close relationship between science, ecology and beauty. As human beings, we are attracted to beauty, but it is important to do it with awareness. For example, the fast fashion industry produces low-cost clothes quickly following the trends of the moment. However, this model has caused serious social and environmental consequences, requiring the use of large quantities of water, energy and chemicals.

We have to get our hands dirty and learn to use the tools in the best way so that the future does not depend on the industrial overproduction of superfluous things.

-Betony Vernon

Starting from these assumptions, it is very important to start afresh from young people. «It is important that the new generations rediscover the art of craftsmanship and the beauty of know-how. I chose to open my new creative studio in Umbria to spread a positive message and support this cause. We have to get our hands dirty and learn to use the tools in the best possible way, because the future does not depend on the industrial overproduction of superfluous things. We can no longer ignore this problem, as it is already too late." Unfortunately, many young people today may be afraid of pursuing a career as craftsmen. Indeed, there is a negative perception of craft professions, which are considered less prestigious and less profitable than other professions. Additionally, many schools promote college education as the only path to career success, prompting young people to focus on earning college degrees rather than vocational and technical training. However, one of the advantages of handicrafts is that the objects created have a longer lifespan than mass-produced ones, which gives them cultural and historical value. It is no coincidence that the artist Betony Vernon 's project with Pianegonda represents a timeless aesthetic in step with the times. «I agreed to work with them for this very reason, because silver and jewels are two durable things that can always have a second life. I have tried to propose, through my creations, something lasting above all from the point of view of design. This collection has a very broad meaning, marries spirit, science and ornament, with jewels as atoms symbolically put together».

The "Absoluto" collection by Pianegonda, in 23 jewels, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings, tells the story of a profound revolution capable of describing the universe and the soul of the cosmos. «I wanted to bring part of my DNA, with pure and sculptural shapes. I loved the idea of inserting this ability to make the pieces live together, to be able to join them together. This collection celebrates life, we often don't think about it, but everything around us emits vibrations».

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Anna Cleveland, former coverstar of "L'Officiel Italia" wears jewels from the new "Absoluto" collection by Pianegonda, photo by Guillaume Thomas

Betony Vernon has a deep bond with the world of eroticism and seduction. Defined as a sexual anthropologist, over the years she has focused a lot of attention on sexuality as an authentic language to learn to know. «Desire is the engine of everything, but it shouldn't be confused with pornography at all. The latter cannot be considered an example of authentic desire. Today we live in an age of great loneliness and we often believe that porn creates desire, but in reality this is opposed to eroticism. Women experience all of this differently, so I advise them to follow their erotic instinct which is an extremely feminine characteristic, not at the service of sex, but of themselves. For this reason, it is important to return to creating a higher message in the service of eroticism. Today we are afraid of pleasure and we tend to experience eroticism as a taboo. The secret is, first of all, to know and love each other».

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