The 'It' Girl of Gastronomy: Meilan Kao on Where to Eat in Barcelona and Ibiza

In Spain, where culinary representations of the Asian diaspora often succumb to pan-Asian clichés, Meilan stands as a beacon of quiet defiance. Much like how Mr Chow redefined Chinese dining for a Western audience, she is carving out her own space with Kao Street, blending heritage, a keen eye for design, and a contemporary edge, all while turning heads in a pair of fabulous red leather trousers, no less. 

It’s in her blood. Born to Taiwanese and Galician parents and raised in Catalonia, Meilan embodies the very essence of a third-culture persona. Her grandfather, Kao Tze Chien, opened the first Chinese restaurant on the Iberian Peninsula, laying the foundations for a family dynasty. Her father, Josep Kao, built upon this legacy with celebrated establishments such as Club Shanghai, Kao Dim Sum, and Kao Soldeu.

With Lunar New Year just around the corner, a time defined by family, tradition, and food, Meilan’s vision feels particularly resonant. As Creative Director of the acclaimed Grupo Kao, this 'It Girl', often spotted at runway shows, has curated an epicurean world that transcends oversimplified 'fusion' tropes. Her curated list of dining spots across Barcelona and Ibiza highlights her discerning palate and deep appreciation for vibrant flavors.

The Asian culinary scene has grown more sophisticated in recent years, Meilan keenly observes. “For so long, everything was lumped under ‘Asian food,’ with menus offering a chaotic mix of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Vietnamese dishes,” she notes. “Now, we’re seeing chefs focus on specific regions—Sichuan, ramen, dim sum—and that’s a positive shift.”

She is also acutely aware of the lingering misconceptions about East Asian cuisine in Spain. “Chinese food has had a bad reputation,” she says bluntly. “Fortunately, that’s changing.”

When she visits Ibiza, she retreats to her chosen homestead, the tranquil landscape of Hotel Aguamadera. While the island’s culinary landscape still yearns for a good Chinese restaurant, there’s hope that the right visionary will soon fill the gap. Until then, Meilan's suggestions offer a look into some existing insider hotspots that should tie your tastebuds over.

Ibiza

Seated in the gallery-like space of her restaurant, Meilan recalls the origins of Kao Street. “In 2019, the space next to Shanghai became available to lease,” she explains. “That’s when the idea came to me: an artisanal Chinese delivery concept with the motto, ‘Proudly made in China, stir-fried in Barcelona.’”

At Kao Street, umami-laden legumes, fragrant truffles, and locally sourced ingredients come together in a carefully curated mélange, marrying the precision of Taiwanese dim sum with a contemporary twist. “Kao Street is a return to our roots but with a fresh perspective,” she says. It’s a concept steeped in nostalgia yet crafted for the future—a bold declaration of what modern Chinese cuisine can be. Beloved classics are elevated with whimsy and local savoir-faire. “We’ve refined our menu to focus on our bestsellers under the Kao gastronomic signature: dim sum, duck, and noodles,” she shares. For Meilan, food isn’t just sustenance; it’s an extension of her identity. “My identity has evolved over time, and with it, so have my creations,” she says. “Incorporating local and European ingredients into Chinese recipes has been essential in setting us apart.”

Everything about Kao Street, from its menu to its aesthetic, is deliberate. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant street food culture of cities such as New York, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, the interior pairs traditional Chinese street-style elements with sleek modernity. The result? A playful yet precise vision and a sold-out merchandise capsule, soon to be restocked.

Beyond the kitchen, Meilan has just launched a haute shirt line, Maison Treitze, with her partner. While tight-lipped about collaborations, she hints at a bar takeover at Canvis Nous and a fashion partnership. “I can’t share details yet,” she teases.

For young women aspiring to enter the culinary world, Meilan offers advice drawn from experience: “Think about why you chose gastronomy. It should be a lifestyle, not just a job—something that connects with your story. Don’t look too much at what others are doing. Create something authentic that comes from within.”

In building her empire, Meilan Kao is reshaping the narrative. The future of Kao Street is ambitious. Meilan is already scouting locations for a second outpost and developing new product lines, such as their signature Chilli Oil. Bold yet refined, her legacy is a flavorful reminder that with the right ingredients, creativity and good taste are always on the menu.