NYFW Rendez-Vous: Clark Sabbat, a Designer with Intention and Perspective
During New York Fashion Week, we had the privilege of meeting designer Clark Sabbat, whose Haitian heritage deeply influenced his new collection.
We had the privilege of speaking with designer Clark Sabbat, whose unique architectural background and Haitian heritage deeply influence his aesthetic. Known for his mastery of clean lines and fluidity, Clark’s designs exude a timeless quality, eschewing fleeting trends in favor of enduring style. In this interview, Clark discusses his journey in fashion, the challenges he’s faced as a Black designer, and how his philosophy of personal evolution continues to shape his collections.
L’OFFICIEL: Clark, could you tell us more about your childhood in Brooklyn and Queens, as well as how your Haitian heritage influenced your designs?
CLARK SABBAT: Luckily, the women in my family were very stylish. My mother, my aunts, my grandmother, etc., were always well-dressed and we were expected to do the same. Their sense of style and quality definitely rubbed off on me and left its mark on me. I grew up in Brooklyn and Queens. We moved to Queens when I was about 10 years old. The picture of me in the white jacket and tie was taken at Newtown High School.
L'O: You first studied architecture before turning to fashion. How has your training in architecture shaped your approach to fashion design?
CS: I have always been fascinated by the idea of lines and how they interact with their surroundings. My fashion is driven by lines and perspective. People who recognize my work can see the direct influence. My goal is to draw the eye and guide it to where the lines go, like when you look at a building. You follow its contours to understand how it is designed. Done well, it evokes an emotion.
L’O: What was the defining moment that made you decide to enroll at Parsons School of Design?
CS: When I applied to the school, everything was done by mail. There was no internet. I knew that Parsons was one of the best fashion schools. To stand out, I knew I had a lot of work ahead of me. My friends didn't believe at the time that I could get in. I was surprised by this lack of support, and it frustrated me that these people I had grown up with, instead of supporting me, were doing the opposite. It lit something in me, and I decided that one of the most important things in my life is that no one can decide my future for me.
L’O: What are some of the challenges you’ve faced as a first-generation American designer, and how did you overcome them?
CS: Growing up in the industry as a black designer, we were pretty much invisible. To be successful, you had to fit a certain mold that was imposed on you. I refused to conform, and I was tired of being rejected. I knew I had talent, so I decided to go out on my own. I had my store in the East Village in the 90s, AG/Argentium, and I had two fashion businesses, Voudoo and Friends with Benefits.
L’O: Can you tell us about your creative process, from inspiration to the final product?
CS: My creative process varies. Sometimes I drape a dress, top, skirt, etc. directly onto a mannequin. From the drape, I develop a final pattern and sample. This process is my favorite because it’s about the interaction between the fabrics and my hands. It’s about instinct, trust, and faith. I also now believe that my story as a designer is that of someone who also creates by evolution. Some designers create great stories for their collections. I don’t have a backstory, I have an aesthetic, and my challenge is to move it forward. My questions are: How do I keep it modern, sexy, and simple?
L'O: How do you integrate elements of your Haitian heritage into your creations?
CS: This season I’m using the hibiscus flower, which is the flower of Haiti, but I’m also using a lot of Boro (a Japanese mending technique). We use scraps of fabric to create a mosaic of fabrics that become a new fabric. This idea is inspired by the fact that Haitians are great at recycling. When I was in Haiti, I remember seeing a lot of toys made from tin cans, recycled boxes, etc.
L’O: What advice would you give to young designers, especially those from underrepresented backgrounds, who want to enter the fashion industry?
CS: Find mentors, explore programs for Black designers. There are more of them than ever. Surround yourself with people who inspire you. Build friendships and collaborate.
L’O: Can you describe the evolution of your design philosophy and how it is reflected in your current collections?
CS: Honestly, when I look back, I can see that my designs were somewhat complicated. My seams were “too much.” I felt like I had to prove that I knew how to cut and drape, so a lot of my designs were unnecessarily complex. I was a lot less confident. As I continued to design, I started to think that less is more and wanted to make more subtle design statements. I am now more confident in my design because I have more confidence in myself.
L'O: Your works feature clean lines and exquisite draping. How do you balance structure and fluidity in your designs?
CS: This is a process that took me a long time to understand. I have worked on this aspect of my craft for many years. There has been a lot of trial and error, but I am happy to say that I have found techniques that work.
“Doing what you love isn’t easy. There are so many times when you wonder why. I read something recently that stuck with me: “If you’re struggling through hardship, it means a hero is being born.” It reminded me to keep going...”
-Clark Sabbat
L'O: How has your love of travel and different cultures influenced your fashion designs?
CS: It’s one thing to see a faraway place in a magazine or online, but it’s another to see the world in person. Experiencing different cultures, people, food, art, etc., is “food for the soul.” As a designer, it’s one of the most important things you can do, besides drawing, draping, and sewing.
L'O: You said, “Design means nothing if it doesn’t have style.” Can you explain what that means to you and how it guides your work?
CS: I don't focus on trends and I don't try to create trends. I want to create clothes that can be worn without anyone knowing what year or season they are from. So I create from intuition and do what feels right. I create pieces that will be worn for a long time.
L'O: Your son Luka Sabbat is a very well-known fashion influencer, and you managed his career for many years. How has this enriched your practice as a designer?
CS: One thing I passed on to Luka, but had forgotten myself for a while, is that nothing is impossible. I went through a period where I was at a bit of a dead end. Seeing him explore his creativity reminded me of who I am and rekindled my artistic energy.
L'O: You created the Rosette Foundation with Luka, with the aim of mentoring and providing opportunities for black people in the fashion industry. Can you tell us a little about it?
CS: Right now, the foundation is on hiatus. We both launched our lines (Luka Sabbat’s new line is called Marking Distance) and are very busy pursuing our careers. I’m still receiving applications, and I’m trying to help a few people directly. As I progress with my activities, I’ll explore opportunities to contribute with the Rosette Foundation.
L’O: You have an upcoming collaboration with Áwet, a store that focuses on fashion brands created by black designers. Can you tell us more about this collaboration?
CS: We were introduced by Lisa Lockwood of WWD, who wrote a separate article about each of us. I looked into the store and its message. I liked that they collaborate with the Black design community. It’s a segment of fashion that is vastly underrepresented, despite the significant amount we, as a community, spend on fashion.
L'O: How do you see the fashion industry evolving in terms of diversity and inclusion, and what role do you want to play in this movement?
CS: I think the industry still has a long way to go. One of the biggest issues is perception. We can’t be lumped under one label because we are so different in taste and style. When the industry can stop focusing on color and truly treat individuals as individuals, we will have made progress. Basically, we all need to learn to know each other better and not let first impressions define what we think we know about a person. I will continue to work and contribute to spreading knowledge and understanding with my colleagues and associates, so that they learn to keep an open mind and heart. I will also continue to excel in my craft to elevate the perception of the “Black designer.”
Clark Sabbat pop-up at Áwet
From October 13, 2024
clarksabbat.com
@clarksabbat
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